Honestly my biggest issue is with not moderating out the dozens of ridiculous entries that are either unrelated or just tinkercad screenshots of unprintable objects that were slapped together without even knowing how to use the align tool. Bonus for the ones that are not even screenshots but photos of someone's monitor showing their ridiculous tinkercad thing. Like, what are they thinking? Why even submit?
I like contests as curated collections for me to browse through, and the scrolling through all that crap kinda annoys me. Maybe they're curating them out now, it's been a while since I looked through them. I know it's a minor pet peeve thing lol
In theory it should be mostly fine to touch, idk much about it either unfortunately. it might be a good idea to put some sort of spray on sealer if you will be touching it regularly and are concerned about it at all.
It is definitely dangerous to sand or cut with a saw or something, definitely want to do that outside with gloves and a respirator because then you're getting loose fibers both on you and airborne.
Just checking comparing this to pottery, thinner/less plastic, or metal…
Or did I miss something by considering the waste from PROTOTYPING everything via spools of plastic? Like I was just talking about planters but if you like, you really have me wondering… what about all the excess plastics prototyping other things… how familiar are you with all that plastic coming off the 3d printing industry? Did I miss something about all this plastic?
We would all be better off knowing what you know. What did I miss?
You're right about the plastic, but just drop the enlightened snark.
As for pottery, forging, casting etc.: completely different processes, different requirements, "vibe" - may not be possible for OP (ever tried operating a forge in a New York city apartment?), might not be aligned with their skills / interests, financial situation etc.
So, what remains is the question: do you believe 3d printing with plastic should be outlawed or at least strongly regulated as a private hobby?
Excellent, reader cases always seem to cost way more than they should, espeically with how fragile they are.
Although, you should know you're supposed to move over to another room to pretend your workspace is cleaner than workspaces ever are, LOL. Then, what are we rocking for the keyboard?
Yeah, I made these because my original case broke (Nova 3 color not kobo). I sell them on Etsy, though sadly since it’s so labour intensive to stitch it ends up costing as much as the eReader. Trying to make it more upgradeable and user serviceable to better justify the price, but I’m still testing them.
As for the desk, it’s my deterrent to keep eBay scam artists from selling my designs with my photos. I have fancy professional photos I can use if I want.
Great design! Stuff like this is why I love 3d printing - "it'd be great if I just had a little thing to hold this.. someone has to be selling this. $23 for 2 pieces of plastic?! I'm making my own."
Generally speaking yes, with bigger nozzles and higher flow rates you will need slightly higher temps- the conduction rate thru the nozzle to the plastic is constant, but you are heating up more plastic and need more energy (thus, higher temps).
You will then also need more part cooling fan as there is more plastic bulk to be cooling.
230 is much much too low for ASA, that stuff is a bit picky. Try 250.
Completely agree, but I have no experience with ASA. 22 mm3/s is super high, Id probably start with the highest temp marked on the spool. You can also test your max flow.
On the other hand, you had a layer shift which could happen for other reasons as well
Yeah. ASA basically acts like ABS when printing for the most part, it does need temps to be a tiny bit higher but mechanically everything else is almost entirely the same.
Polymaker ASA is what I'm currently using. You can grab 3 KG spools on Amazon for as low as $50-60 depending on the color (new via prime) if you keep an eye out.
The mix of ASA and a higher flow printer as resulted in a lot more fickle prints though, but this is also true for PETG. Things like EM vary some as a function of speed, so I've found that I need to print all my features at a similar speed.
Total anecdote, I had nothing but problems with Polymaker ASA, which I believe was me trying to run it through too fast. i have a dragon UHF which is, in theory, supposed to be able to do speeds over 30 mm^3/s, first thing I'd try is just slower print speeds and then bump it up from there.
You could also look at a cht nozzle, but as a word of warning, I found the bimetallic ones super fragile, if I recall they want a way lower torque spec than a solid brass or steel nozzle, so they're easy to shear off if you're not careful.
Edit: Leaving the original comment, but I think I may have mixed up for esun abs plus.
What kinds of problems have you had? It's been OK for me. Sure, it's harder to print than PETG but it's also ASA. I do find myself wondering if it's the material or my setup at times though. So far I've run about 7 kg of the stuff. You can find a bunch of it in my post history.
I had clogging and stringing issues, which not unexpected when jumping between materials. I had tried it to reduce smell, but ended up not finding much of a difference for me. Prusament ASA was decent but really expensive (duties alone). I probably didn't give it (polymaker) a fair chance, had really good results with the polymaker pla and polyterra pla for some decorative prints. I've definitely had my share of hit and miss with amazon filament, they certainly are way better than I recall them being a decade ago, I do try to dry them now before using and stick with a few brands. I may also be misattributing issues to the polymaker asa, I also bought esun abs+ at the same time, I was building a nevermore max, one of the two just gave me grief and I was mildly annoyed with failed prints.
In terms of what I use now, I have had a lot of luck with Spool3D abs and petg, I sourced a lot of parts from them and found their filament pretty solid (though I'm not sure who supplies it). Recently I've been using Matter3D abs and pla, they have a wood fill pla I liked and their abs printed nicely for me. I'm Canadian so import duties and shipping can be killer, so trying to find a domestic supply was my goal. I definitely still use polymaker, have used a bunch of standard abs and their colour selection is amazing. I don't tend to go for asa over abs, if only for price, looking at amazon, for polymaker 2x1 kg black is $55 cad for abs and $77 cad for ASA, I can almost get an entire third spool for the difference in price.
Thanks for the reply. I haven't had clogging issues with it, but I have had some whispy stringing until I lowered my temp a touch. My preferred filament house (Atomic Filament) looks like they're offering ASA so maybe I'll give them a shot. My biggest issue is warping and I can't imagine that other brands are going to be that different. I finally got great bed plate adhesion but my last print pulled the magnetic surface up.
Thx! Sounds like rly good deal, but 3 kg is not for me honestly. I dont print that much and also my spool holder is too small. 500 g spools would be better for me hehe
Not sure what EM is, but if you meant that some parts of print are shiny and the rest is matte, its probably different flow. Having equal speeds should fix that, I saw a video where they reduce max flow as solution
Bah, I typoed. I'm running 250 first layer/240 following layers, which is still lower than what most usually recommend. I was running 235 pretty consistently previously. I'll have to try printing a temp tower with the bigger nozzle. Here's one from the 0.4mm nozzle, granted also with my prior Rapido 1 (RIP).
Above 245 or so, I started getting a lot of very fine/wispy stringing. It basically looked like ultrafine thread and would get itself stuck in my hot end fans.
You will then also need more part cooling fan as there is more plastic bulk to be cooling.
Thanks to somewhat low chamber temps (350mm^3 printer with only acrylic panels), I've been keeping cooling somewhat low. I recently added some more bed fans to help my bed filter out, so maybe I can try a bit more if it starts becoming an issue.
Even 250 is a bit low for that high of a volume. Are you running a brass nozzle or a hardened/stainless steel nozzle? Steel nozzles will require even more hotend temp due to their low conduction rates. Eg, with the stainless nozzles on a Bambu P1S, I have to run ASA at around 260/262 for higher print speeds.
If stringing is a problem consider increasing the speed of your filament retraction (not distance)
You may also want to turn off z-hop. Sounds wild I know, but it does help- by not lifting the nozzle during a rapid move, it "wipes" the nozzle clean as it moves off the part and reduces stringing. Realistically you shouldn't use z-hop at all unless you have a part with a very small cross section that keeps falling over when the nozzle wipes across it. Which ofc, the big print I see in the photo looks like it will have zero stability problems, lol.
This is a hardened steel nozzle. 260 looked a little rough, but 255 looks pretty good. The temp tower got knocked off the bed at 235. It does look like I'll need to bump cooling a touch. Currently working on a retraction tower.
If stringing is a problem consider increasing the speed of your filament retraction (not distance)
I'll have to give this a go after this retraction tower prints. On the last one I printed there was basically no difference on any of the settings once it got above 0.2mm of retraction. In my time with the rapido, any filament left in the nozzle will ooze out if its left hot but it doesn't string that badly.
You may also want to turn off z-hop. Sounds wild I know, but it does help- by not lifting the nozzle during a rapid move, it “wipes” the nozzle clean as it moves off the part and reduces stringing. Realistically you shouldn’t use z-hop at all unless you have a part with a very small cross section that keeps falling over when the nozzle wipes across it.
Yup, I've run into this realization too - that's part of the reason why I was thinking to have z-hop on for this print
Which ofc, the big print I see in the photo looks like it will have zero stability problems, lol.
Adding two more bed fans, for a total of 4 (2 loose bed fans, 2 fans in my filter) and getting a bang on first layer (yay klipper_z_calibration) seem to have really helped with warping. I do have some ACM panels that I want to swap on to bump chamber temps up more, but I haven't taken the time to print new magnetic inserts for them yet.
Still try the higher temp, but bump up your retraction to counteract that. I went with the same move for printing silk to get cleaner layers, and it's worked out really well.
Not the exact answer you're looking for, but if the only thing stopping you from soldering a premade button to your case is a lack of soldering iron (and I'm assuming the knowledge of how to use one), depending on where you live they are incredibly cheap and accessible, and for the kind of soldering you'd be doing here you can learn how to do it very quickly, probably a 15 minute YouTube video and some practice on spare wires.
If you're into this kind of tinkering, you're probably gonna need to use one anyways, it's one of those things where you probably won't use it all that often but it's invaluable when you need it. I had to rebuild my printer a few weeks ago which included an upgrade to a stealthburner extruder and I do not trust that simply twisting and taping all of those wires together would've been sufficient.
Normally I would just go out and grab one as I have done it a bit before, and I know how useful they are, I am just a bit strapped for cash at the moment. (College student who didn't manage to grab a job for summer :/)
Maybe I will make a temp solution and then make something more proper later on.
Reasonable. A junk soldering iron will just be a pain point for you for years to come. Ask for a good one for Xmas or something though. Decent soldering iron is a tinkering must have.
Very cool! This is the second time I see the heat-bed used in an 'exotic' way 😄
But what piqued my interest is, what the heck are you doing with watch dials? I know from buying a couple of watches that the dial is always considered a work of art, precision and crispness. What I mean to say is, dials seem to be uber important. And seems very, very difficult to mimic by yourself at home.
Are you trying to create watches and thus need to also create dials? Create new dials for existing watches?
I'm super curious now 😀
I 100% agree with you, a professionally made dial is a work of art and should be absolutely perfect at any magnification. This is just a fun, cheap summer watch project for my own enjoyment ;)
The best looking alternative would have been to have the logo made by electroforming. They look perfect and very professional. Unfortunately the MOQs are usually quite large and therefore expensive, I couldn't justify spending half the price of this project just on a logo (even if I had enough spare logos for several lifetimes).
Extrusion works by the motor pushing the filament forward, causing pressure behind the nozzle, and the filament melting and extruding out the end. When your printer wants to stop extruding ( ie moving to a new part or section to print without printing anything in the middle), it makes a retraction to pull the filament back, releasing the pressure behind the nozzle, and stopping the filament from extruding out.
In a perfect world, a full retraction would not be necessary; not pushing the filament forward should stop the pressure buildup, and stop the filament from flowing. However, we don't live in a perfect world, and so backing the filament up a small amount is necessary to stop it from flowing.
Finding out exactly how much you need to back the filament up is the purpose of this test. Back the filament up too much, and you can create clogging issues, extrusion issues caused by the filament not being at the end of the nozzle at the beginning of the extrusion, and (slightly) increased print time; don't back the filament up far enough, and filament will continue extruding out the nozzle, causing stringing.
The test works by having you lower your retraction distance to a very small number ( a lot of tests will have you disable retraction altogether, ie 0 mm), and slowly increase it from there. The idea is that the bottom of the tower will look like hot garbage, and slowly improve as the retraction increases; what's the quality stops improving, you know that that is your ideal retraction distance.
If you have a Bowden tube setup, a good retraction Tower would have values ranging from 0 mm to around 10 mm. Direct drive extruders need far less retraction; 0 to 2 mm in 0.2 mm increments should be good. Again, you're looking for the first setting that gets rid of stringing.
Let me know if you need any help or have further questions! Retraction can be really tricky to understand mechanically, but can be important for improving print quality and reducing the need for post-processing.
I must have done something wrong because the whole tower looks pretty much the same except for a clear overextrusion around the middle on one side. The rest have really thin barely visible strings that don't go very far.
I don't use orca slicer so I'm not familiar with how it works specifically, but are you sure that the retraction settings are actually changing between different sections? I made the mistake when I first started it just loading the model and letting it print with default settings from my slicer. If the GitHub doesn't specify exactly how to enable the retraction tower settings, I would look up a guide on YouTube. If you've done temp towers, it'll likely be set up in a similar fashion.
If your test starts at 0 and you don't see any difference, it definitely it not working as intended; 0 retraction with result in a huge stringy mess, and going to the next step will be a significant change.
Edit: also maybe make sure that you are using the correct values for testing according to your extruder setup; if you are using a direct drive retraction tower on a bowden setup, the changes will be too small to make any discernible difference, and the lowest setting on a bowden test will likely be too high for a direct drive.
The way the test is implemented through orca slicer is actually a bit confusing. The forks of bambulab and orca slicer are likely intermingled. I used the default settings given in the drop menu then it imported a model. I then started the test as is without modifying anything.
I honestly have no idea which the correct values were for the p1p. Now that you mentioned it, I suppose I should have checked with bambulabs online manual. I hadn't thought about that.
Do some poking around for your printer and slicer - for your printer, you need to know if you have a direct drive or Bowden tube setup, and for your slicer, you need to figure out how to modify the standard gcode.
Looking at some pictures online I'm pretty sure your printer is a direct drive. Again I'm not familiar with your slicer so I don't know what your model looks like, but typically retraction tests will be a tower with different values printed on the side indicating how far the retraction distance is. For a direct drive, these values should be pretty small, likely topping out at just a couple mm at most.
A search for " <slicer name> retraction tower setup" should get you numerous tutorials for your slicer, just follow those guides and input a range appropriate to your setup and should be good to go
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