IMALlama

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IMALlama , (edited )

Counterpoint: there are plenty of well off folks taking classified drugs recreationally out of boredom that become addicted. I came from a high cost of living suburbia and there really wasn't a lot to do as a teenager due to high property values and taxes. Recreational spaces, especially aimed at teens, were basically non-existent. I imagine the same is also true in rural areas, but for different reasons.

IMALlama ,

A very related question to ask is: did your parents, or extended family, ever help you financially?

Here's my answer.

Have I ever received help from my parents and/or extended family? Yes. I was able to live rent free after high school while I found my way. When I eventually started college I was able to live at home and commute. My family started a college fund for me when I was little, so I was able to cover about 15% of my in-state tuition. We also got a cash loan from my Grandma to put toward a down payment that we paid back over the course of a few years. Without it we wouldn't have been able to buy our house.

Am I getting help from my parents or extended family now? No, I haven't for years. Money and support have started flowing the other direction. I've given my mom a (used) car and also let her live with us for a year and a half while she switched careers.

Microsoft has gone too far: including a Game Pass ad in the Settings app ushers in a whole new age of ridiculous over-advertising ( www.techradar.com )

Windows 11 is getting out of hand with its push for advertisments, frankly - remember the recent full-screen pop-up to persuade users to install Edge or other Microsoft services? Then another advertisment was placed in the Start menu, and now Microsoft has finally worn my temper thin - with a new Game Pass ad coming to the...

IMALlama ,

Or random application availability and/or ease of use.

Two cases in point:

  • Photo Mechanic. It makes it really easy/fast to sort through tons of photos. There are some Linux compatible alternatives, but they're just not as good
  • Fusion 360. There are a couple of things you can do to make it work, but since Linux isn't officially supported the install process can be a bit fiddily and there's no guarantee that an update won't break things.

Things are certainly better now than they have been in the past, but if you're somewhat time limited (eg your computer is more of a tool than a thing to spend time tweaking) Linux can still be a bit offputting - especially if some of the core applications you use aren't officially supported.

IMALlama ,

You're four forks deep now
Slic3r to Prusa Slicer to Bamboo's slicer to Orca. It also borrowed a lot of ideas from Super Slicer. Since it's open source, and has been gaining some momentum, it seems to have a decent amount of contributors

Why Orca?

  • all the features you know and love from things up the tree
  • a revamped UI
  • built in tuning tests (temp tower, extrusion multiplier, volumetric flow, pressure advance, etc)
  • great Klipper integration if that's your jam
IMALlama ,

If mildew doesn't get them, vine borers will :(

What is a good second career?

The wife and I are getting older. We have been working for decades at this point. But we are too young to retire, and we had kids late. But one of us could totally switch over to a lower stress second career. Ideally something with benefits, maybe even a chance to get a pension. And since we still have kids, needs to be...

IMALlama ,

Conversely, go the harbor freight route. If you use it until it wears out then upgrade.

I don't know how much money there is in fixing things though? Between hard to find parts, general lack of repairability, and the fairly low cost of new it doesn't seem like there's much opportunity there.

IMALlama ,

Nurses absolutely, especially since they physically have to move patients around. I wouldn't expect that physical therapists would need to do that, but I also admit to not having any knowledge about the job.

I made a thing! (Bluetooth speaker modeled from scratch) ( lemmy.world )

No banana for scale, but let's say that it's not too big and not too small. The dimensions are 295mm tall, 270mm wide, and 240mm deep. If I had to do it again, I would be tempted to go a bit wider and touch less deep. It's probably better to be large in one of these dimensions as opposed to both of them....

IMALlama OP ,

I've seen that approach taken to make the enclosure more "dead", but at these power levels it doesn't really matter a lot. The walls are 1.8mm thick with 30% infill. The top and bottom are PETG and the middle section is ASA. These materials are more ductile than say PLA, so they're inherently slightly deader.

You're absolutely correct that the approach you suggested would result in a slightly better outcome for a bit more weight to lug around and a little more design effort. It just didn't seem worth it to me for this portable and fairly low power application.

IMALlama OP ,

Another commenter in here suggested filling the gap with concrete. I don't think it's worth it at this power level, cheapish BOM, etc. The enclosure is also ASA (the middle) and PETG (the top and bottom), so it's a bit more dead than PLA already.

That looks like an interesting design. If you're linking to something like that, you've heard of Hoffman's Iron Law already. I chose size and low end response over efficiency. I did model some higher order enclosures, but they either didn't get low enough (size, efficiency) or were too big (efficiency, low end response).

New FPS Built Using Doom Tech Is Better Than Most AAA Shooters ( kotaku.com )

Things aren’t looking good for me. I’m a few levels into Selaco, a new FPS out now on Steam, and I’m stuck behind a bar as a group of sci-fi soldiers unload their rifles and shotguns into my hiding spot. I’m also low on health. So yeah, a bad spot to be in. I take a deep breath and try something....

IMALlama ,

Let us know what you think of it! It certainly looks like it could be entertaining.

IMALlama ,

Thanks for the follow up!

standing desk legs

Title basically. I have a decently large solid wood desktop (guessing around 72"x30"x1") that supports two computer monitors, two studio monitors, a tower computer hanging under it, a laptop on it, and a decent amount of clutter because it's a decently sized space I spend a lot of time sitting in front of. I'm currently using...

IMALlama OP ,

This is an interesting perspective, thanks!

IMALlama ,

That's interesting. Zested lemon (finely grated lemon peel) has a pretty strong flavor too. I guess it's not as intensely sour though.

IMALlama ,

Subscribed to the second and link. I like to lurk/sort by subscribed and new and will try to comment when I have something to contribute. Niche communities are hard to form without a decent user base, but a general recommends community seems like a great idea.

IMALlama OP ,

The printer is a a Voron 2.4 running klipper with a chamber thermistor, controlled bed fans, and an exhaust fan so it will do a decent job regulating it's temperature. The electronics are outside the chamber and there are acrylic panels under the blanket and hoodies. Should it come to it, klipper has thermal runaway protection. There's also a smoke alarm right next to the printer. I suspect this will be a pretty uneventful print.

I let the printer heat soak for an hour and a half before giving it a go and barely cracked 60 °C, so all should be well. This is a Voron, so the electronics are out of the chamber, have a cooling fan, etc.

Other than looking somewhat janky, this isn't that different than the insulated panels I'll be swapping on to replace the current acrylic panels.

IMALlama OP ,

This is basically what I'm planning on doing to make this look a bir nicer in the future. Do you change your bedfan speed via macro or do you only rely on your exhaust fan to regulate the temp?

IMALlama OP ,

Yup! The bedfans are also in a control loop.

IMALlama OP ,

I struggled to hit 60 °C after an hour and a half of heat soak using the filter and two extra bedfans on full blast. This was measured from the toolhead over the center of bed and the nozzle 75mm off the bed. Without the insulation I was in the low 40s.

I don't have enough cardboard to make a cardboard sleeve, but I do have ACM panels I've been meaning to install, along with some of that foil bubble radiant insulation.

IMALlama OP ,

I loled. This should be pretty safe though, check my other replies in the tread.

IMALlama OP ,

I've had a number of bigger prints warp with just acrylic panels :( now that I've finally figured out how to consistently nail my first layer the last print lifted the build plate. I was impressed, lol.

I need to figure out what I'm going to do for my door. Thinking about going clicky-clack so I can still eyeball the first layer out of habit.

IMALlama OP ,

No adhesion helpers either, I was pretty pleased! This macro seems a bit daunting to set up and get running, but it should solve most of your challenges: https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration

IMALlama OP ,

I guess I'm not clear what the source of ignition would be? The chamber is fairly well temperature controlled, so it's not likely that something inside will overheat. The cloth that's draped over outside of the printer can't come into contact with any hot bits thanks to acrylic panels. The chamber itself is currently sitting at 59 C after the print has been going for 10 hours (plus 1.5 hours of preheat before that).

Agree on venting, I need to duct my exhaust fan to the outside.

A space blanket is a good idea. I have a few lying around and will add one. Bonus points for being a radiant barrier (eg should help get things warmer again). I'm surprised that mylar will help prevent the spread of fires.

IMALlama OP ,

The electronics are housed in a (reasonably) sealed airspace below the print bed and have two fans blowing across them. Here's a link to CAD/STLs/some pictures: https://vorondesign.com/voron2.4. If you want to poke around GitHub, you can do so here: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2. No printer is perfect, but Vorons are fairly well thought out and I didn't skimp out on components when I was sourcing parts. All wiring inside the enclosure is either PTFE or silicone insulated.

Here's what it looks like underneath:

https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/d4586c30-6ff1-4572-a7e4-e850976be54a.jpeg

I always recommend keeping a cheap lil smoke alarm directly overhead any 3d printer, seriously

Totally covered.

IMALlama OP ,

Ultimately, if the printer is going to go up in flames the source of those flames won't originate at the cloth draped over the acrylic enclosure. The chamber barely cracked 60 °C, which is well below what smaller Vorons, especially V0s, will hit with only acrylic panels. Yay lots of surface area I guess.

It will be very interesting to see how everyone reacts (or doesn't) to some "better looking" insulation. The sources of ignition won't be any different, but I bet that people will be much more comfortable looking at insulated ACM panels that were built for purpose.

IMALlama ,

I suspect this is like our tomatoes. The tomatos you buy in stores were cultivated to be pretty, to get harvested by a machine, and to ship without getting damaged. Meanwhile, heirloom tomatoes will split their skin on a humid day, but they pack a ton more flavor in. The same is true for the vast majority of our fruit and veg. Actually ripened on plant produce doesn't have a very long shelf life.

IMALlama ,

It's a fruit?! I thought you used the stalk, which looks somewhat like celery in shape. /a Midwesterner who has eaten rhubarb pies made/grown by a great aunt

IMALlama ,

Like much store bought produce, grocery store strawberries are picked not fully ripe to make them easier to transport. On pant ripened most anything will nearly always be better than store bought, but you better be ready to use it quickly.

IMALlama ,

That sounds like a wild strawberry. The berries won't get. Offer year over year.

IMALlama ,

haha. I swear, the quality of my writing on Lemmy is abysmal.

IMALlama ,

And if you don't grow tomatoes yourself you'll never know the difference.

What do you mean? Once you have home grown, or even farm stand, produce you realize that the vast majority of grocery store stuff is picked before it's really ripe.

IMALlama ,

I was generalizing about heirlooms not being very easy to grow to modern standards. I grow a decent verity of heirlooms and hybrids and the hybrids don't split nearly as often.

IMALlama , (edited )

Week? Man. I have a large Jade and water the thing evey other month. Sometimes it goes even longer than that. It's happily starting it's spring bloom after coming out from under grow lights in my basement to sit in front of a north facing window. All our smaller succulents are on a monthly ish schedule, but that's not anything we rigorously watch/pay attention to. Weekly for a succulent seems too often, but if they're happy they're happy.

IMALlama ,

OP said in an earlier post that they've had the plant for years and that it started life as the top of a grocery store pineapple. I'm somewhat tempted to give it a go just for giggles.

What's your go-to "Bang for your Buck" filament brand?

As I'm graduating college in a few weeks, I'll be losing access to my university's free printers and filament. I'm going to build up a home lab with a couple printers where I can make goofy little mechanical projects as well as some components for my cars and stuff....

IMALlama ,

I've printed a decent amount of PETG from both Push Plastic and Atomic Filament. Both have been very solid/reliable, but I would probably give an edge to Atomic as far as quality. Their PETG has never let me down. On the ASA front, I've run around 9 kg of Polymaker ASA through my Voron with another 1.5 of blue and white sitting on two different 3kg spools. I ran 2 kg of their ASA through my i3 clone printing prints for my Voron. I haven't had any problems with it, and it does occasionally go on sale for very attractive prices. I bought my last two spools on November 24th last year for $50.39 (for a 3 kg spool of blue) and $67.19 (for a 3 kg spool of white). Polymaker's ASA does require what seems like a very low extrusion multiplier (I'm currently at 0.893), but you can print the stuff blazing fast in terms of mm^3/s.

Now that I know that both Atomic Filament and Push Plastic offer ASA, I might give them a spin when I need a refill. I don't go through that much filament and don't mind spending a little extra $$ for something that could result in less headache. I also like supporting American companies/manufacturers where I can.

IMALlama ,

TIL of Jesse, thanks for the link!

IMALlama ,

Mistakes are how we learn. What learnings have you made? What process did you take to get there? That would be worth writing down for others.

We tend to focus too much on "this is how I succeeded in <thing>" and don't talk about all the false starts along the way that taught the skills to succeed.

IMALlama OP ,

Do you mean you print with a layer of kapton directly on the magnet? I could try that, i do have a roll of kapton tape...

IMALlama OP ,

Do you think this is something I could combat with higher chamber temps? I've been putting off swapping my acrylic panels for ACM and installing radiant insulation, but if it will help...

Using my hot end thermometer as a chamber thermocouple (hot end fan on high), 75mm above the bed and in the centerish it looks like I'm hitting around 50 °C after 45 minutes or so. I doubt it's getting much hotter in there.

My bed is already fairly low at 100 °C, but I could try 95 °C after the first layer as you said. I can also lower my extruder temp some, but ambient is still going to be way cooler than the plastic coming out of the hot end.

IMALlama OP ,

Thanks for the reply. I have a z end stop and use z_calibrate to automatically set offset. I may have printed a small part on my my bed magnet once...

My issue was not adhesion with the metal build plate, it was the print warping and taking the build plate with it (look at pic again, the build plate is lifted about 1" on both ends).

I could try taping the build plate down, but that would probably just move the failure point elsewhere...

IMALlama OP ,

The printer is enclosed, but it's 350mm cubed and the enclosure consists solely of acrylic panels. I have an under bed filter and two additional bed fans. This gets my chamber to 53 °C after an hour of preheating. I am strongly considering swapping to ACM panels and adding a layer of internal radiant insulation. I have the materials, just haven't spent the time to do it yet.

How hot does your Qidi chamber get?

I imagine there is a ceiling as to how large an ASA part you can print, but I hope this isn't it.

IMALlama OP ,

EM means extrusion multiplier, which is also called flow in some slicers. Shiny vs not is usually a temperature thing.

IMALlama OP ,

What kinds of problems have you had? It's been OK for me. Sure, it's harder to print than PETG but it's also ASA. I do find myself wondering if it's the material or my setup at times though. So far I've run about 7 kg of the stuff. You can find a bunch of it in my post history.

What did you switch to?

IMALlama OP ,

I think I found what was happening. Z hop was off and as the nozzle traveled at warp speeds over the print it was touching the prior layer ever so slightly. I think it snagged the infill in this print. Trying again with a hotter extruder and z-hop on.

It's printing in an acrylic enclosed Voron 2.4. Zero warping.

IMALlama OP ,

Thanks for the reply. I haven't had clogging issues with it, but I have had some whispy stringing until I lowered my temp a touch. My preferred filament house (Atomic Filament) looks like they're offering ASA so maybe I'll give them a shot. My biggest issue is warping and I can't imagine that other brands are going to be that different. I finally got great bed plate adhesion but my last print pulled the magnetic surface up.

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