If there was a significant amount of resin inside the printer (which I have to assume since you report strong smell), your boss is either a negligent asshole or somebody irresponsibly ignorant.
And if the printer was working and actively printing something inside an enclosed unventilated environment, then your boss can't be trusted with crayons or scissors.
the slicer making the nozzle move differently between layers because there are different features in different layers. You can usually see this in the sliced gcode preview with something like nozzle speed
inconsistent extrusion due to variation in hot end temp and/or filament width
lead screw wobble. This will show up as a repeatable pattern along the z axis
binding in the z-axis
something loose, most likely on your gantry
If you print two different models and it happens at the same z height you can basically guarantee it's a mechanical issue. If it's more random you'll need to troubleshoot further.
The fact the lines are at the same height between different jobs suggests something is wrong with your Z axis. Can you post photos of your printer, including the Z rails and/or screws?
Sorry for the late reply, tied up. Thankyou for the photos.
The Z-axis leadscrews look OK in the photos (nothing obviously wrong). That's a very clean and new printer.
Q1. Is there any grease on those Z-axis leadscrews (tall metal spiral rods) or are they completely dry?
Q2. If you force your printer to move up and down does it make unusual noises at some parts of its travel height? You can try typing thing g-code into your printer monitor software to make it move up and down:
G0 Z100 F1000 (move to Z position 100mm. You won't actually travel at 1000mm/minute, instead the printer will do whatever it's max is)
G0 Z0 F1000 (move to Z position 0mm, ie nozzle touching the bed)
You may need to home the axes first (G28)
Q3. Are these screws on both sides properly tight? I think I might possibly see a gap under one, but it could also be an optical illusion from reflections.
Ha. I like the vga part but the part that makes your usb - c connector look like an old fashioned proprietary apple lightening connector is just too much!
I know, I had to look at it for a while but the side edges in the pictures are rather sharp while a USB connector would have a completely round edge...
Leave a factually incorrect, unprompted whataboutism about socialism or communism in a thread criticizing capitalism and I bet you could rival this comment count.
So, 3d prints will always have a radius on corners that is roughly equal to half the extrusion width. This is because the nozzles are circular, and the plastic comes out in a circular cross section.
From what I can tell on the picture of your part, you have a relatively wide extrusion width set up. what's the sliced width? what's the size of your nozzle?
If you want very sharp corners, you'll need to drop down to a smaller nozzle diameter to maintain other aspects of print quality- generally extrusion widths should be at least the width of the nozzle. The reason being is that your printer relies on getting good 'squish' to keep the layers adhering stronger, and the way a printer gets narrower extrusion widths is by 'stretching' the filament along, which kind of weakens things.
If you're using prusa slicer, it's a simple matter to reduce EW specifically on external perimeters and get a nice print without sacrificing too much in the way of strength, but if the difference between internal perimeters and external perimeters are too large... things may go wonky. at that point, it might be prudent to drop down to a smaller nozzle diameter. (which prints things slower.)
A minor word of warning, however. Fillets and chamfers are important aspects of design. having sharp corners looks good, sure, but putting a fillet or chamfer on an internal corner makes a stronger part.
Nice. Might come in handy for others considering how common that USR modem design was. I would have liked to see a power-on shot to see how well the PETG lights worked.
I'll post it to Printables.com soon. I'm not sure how common the brittle plastic issue was but, yeah, there seem to be a lot of variations using this exact same case design.
I haven't seen the LEDs yet since I've lost the power supply, but I've used the same PETG pipe technique a couple of times before and it works great.
I have this pen which is $60 on Amazon. I really like it. Used it with PLA PETG and ABS with no issues. It doesn’t need as high temperatures as 3D printer as the filament comes out much slower.
I bought a cheap pen, maybe the same as the other poster, to help weld things together. Turns out I have no skills, and it looks bad. As a whole for me, 3d pens are annoying to use.
When you need to weld two 3d printed parts together, try Weld-On 3. It comes with a hypodermic applicator. Press the parts tight together, then drip some Weld-On 3 in the seam. The liquid is a strong solvent that dissolves the surface of both pieces, but within a minute the parts are welded together. It's the BEST way to weld two 3d printed parts together I have ever used. Use in a well ventilated area.
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