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How do I get phone notifications from my server while I'm not connected to my home network?

Hey guys. Im running Home Assistant in docker container for few years and I'm super happy with it. The only way I access my server when not home is wireguard VPN. I noticed that I'm still receiving notifications even when not connected to VPN. I wonder how is that possible?...

rambos ,

they don't generally care about the pirated software

It feels like SolidSquad is working for Dassault lol. They want people to learn it so they can sell software to companies that makes money from it

rambos ,

If you are testing upload speed better try with public torrent since it is much harder to seed on private trackers.

I dont use seedbox, but kinda happy with airvpn

Auto bed leveling on Ender 3 Max Neo

When printing on my Ender 3 Max Neo (stock except for a PEI bed), the right side of the bed is always printing too close. I manually leveled the bed, and then I run the auto-leveling sequence. I also have it set to run auto-level before every print, and confirmed that it's enabled using M420 S1 after the G29 in the opening...

rambos ,

You get different map every time? Maybe your sensor is not trigering consistently? Is it wobbly? Hopefully its the sensor issue, otherwise its probably hardware issue (X Gantry or bed).

the right side of the bed is always printing too close

If the height diffetrence is always the same, you can try manual bed mesh leveling (sensor not even required). Create one map and load it every time. You can also just eddit existing map if you know what is wrong.

rambos ,

I see the mesh, but cant tell what is wrong with it. Is your mesh about the same every time after running ABL? If you check any point on the right side, do you think your bed and nozzle are at the same distance after every ABL run, but sensor reading is wrong on that side?

Basically you have to identify is your sensor faulty, otherwise your bed or X gantry might be moving in Z over time. Faulty sensor can be fixed or replaced or just go to manual mesh leveling.

I would try probing the same point multiple times in a row and see what difference you see in readings. You could also do a manual mesh and compare it with auto bed mesh.

Move nozzle close to the bed, disable XY motors and move nozzle around while observing the gap. 0.1 mm variation can be seen by naked eye (alternative to paper method) and you have 0.6 mm according to your mesh.

Use a metal ruler (or something flat) and a light to confirm how much and where is bed bent, again visual inspection.

rambos ,

Walking into CD shop and buying album was something I couldn't afford as 15y old

rambos OP ,

It doesnt happen often ofcourse. It is super rare, but there are many horror storries on google. I think the biggest reason for fire hazard is a kitchen stove, still most people dont have any protection even there (including me).

These cans cost like 2-3 kg of filament and hopefully they will never be used and end up like a "waste of money". Im spending money on this hobby anyway and this upgrade might help me sleep better 😁

Sorry for anxiety my friend

rambos OP ,

My printer is behind shelly plug as well and I was thinking I could mount temperature sensor and smoke detector that shuts down printer through homeassistant and alarming me if needed. Testing and trusting that automation might be difficult tho. I do have camera as well, but that thing wouldnt help if shit happens while im in the deep sleep. Extinguisher would live on top of that.

rambos OP ,

This one would be more difiicult to mount in my cabinet, but the main reason Im eying can type is that I found multiple recommendations and also that thing cant be activated without flame afaik.

Im glad that people in this community dont have much experience with these, but that makes it more difficult to find the best product

rambos OP ,

Thx for sharing. Usefull information

rambos OP ,

Thx for input.

I agree with you mostly, but there are also unfortunate examples even with big eu brand as well. Im not paranoid, but home 3D printer is more like production machine than kitchen appliance imo. They have moving parts and print failures happen sooner or later. Fire in a kitchen is not that rare it seems anyway.

Before reading comments, I wasnt aware that prusa is selling fire suppression system, but I guess there is a reason for that

rambos ,

lemann gave some good points. Since you already tried so many things like lower temp than recommended and drying, I guess bowden tube might be loose (there should be no play at all). Or just a bad filament? I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.

What size of the nozzle you use? Bigger nozzle = more stringing

It is hard to avoid stringing with PETG, but for PLA it shouldn't be a problem at all. My bowden extruder with 3 mm retraction has 0 stringing with Polymaker Polyterra PLA. Even with 1 mm stringing is almost gone completely. I found Polymaker much better with stringing than DevilDesign or AzureFilm that I used before.

rambos ,

Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…

Just pull/push the tube with your hands. If there is no play you are good, but if there is:

  1. Inspect the bowden tube ends and cut them if they are worn out
  2. Push the bowden tube in the fitting.
  3. While pushing it in, press the collet down
  4. Then pull it out with a nail and then zip tie it

I found original clips too thin, zip ties are much better IMO. It helped me remove stringing completely while using half of the retraction distance (using 0.6 nozzle)

‘My whole library is wiped out’: what it means to own movies and TV in the age of streaming services ( www.theguardian.com )

*What rights do you have to the digital movies, TV shows and music you buy online? That question was on the minds of Telstra TV Box Office customers this month after the company announced it would shut down the service in June. Customers were told that unless they moved over to another service, Fetch, they would no longer be...

rambos ,

No scripts and it was more like 30 hours on my side, but its worth!

rambos ,

If you cant increase chamber temp, you can try reducing bed temperature. There is a minimum bed temp you need fot first layer, but you can try dropping it even more (5C) after a layer or two. PEI shouldnt loose adhesion and you will have a bit less shrinking. Not sure would that be enough for your part tho, warping is massive

rambos ,

Higher chamber temp should help and I think its the best way to deal with this issue. If you are going to try a different build surface like Kapton, consider gluing PEI sheet directly on the alu plate instead (not the spring steel sheet, just a PEI)

rambos ,

I hook a filament around my neck before going to sleep. Every morning extruder pulls me out of the bed instead of using alarm. Don't need a clock anymore and love to print in the morning anyway

rambos ,

At idle, my latest 5-drive setup draws 20 watts

That's super low. What drives do you have? Are your drives spinning down?

rambos ,

If you need it for Android than try TiviMate. Its a payed app (annually or lifetime), but its the best one I found. Free version should work enough to try it out. I got lifetime and love it, but sometimes EPG doesnt work (could be issue with my provider tho)

rambos ,

Oh ok, I've never seen something like that. Let me know if you find a solution

rambos ,

Completely agree, but I have no experience with ASA. 22 mm3/s is super high, Id probably start with the highest temp marked on the spool. You can also test your max flow.

On the other hand, you had a layer shift which could happen for other reasons as well

rambos ,

Thanks, I ordered some Polymaker ASA recently, will try it out.

rambos ,

Thx! Sounds like rly good deal, but 3 kg is not for me honestly. I dont print that much and also my spool holder is too small. 500 g spools would be better for me hehe

Not sure what EM is, but if you meant that some parts of print are shiny and the rest is matte, its probably different flow. Having equal speeds should fix that, I saw a video where they reduce max flow as solution

rambos ,

I use it in croatia, but its so funny here since no one really cares. people around me torrent on daily basis for 20ish years and nobody got ISP letter. Even friends are laughing because I spend money on that lol. Its only 5€ a month and I use it for other things as well. Just get it if you can or 🤞

rambos ,

Pop!_Shop

That app was slow and laggy for me. I started using app called "Software" and that one is amazing.

I don't know why we have 2 stores preinstalled and what is the difference

rambos ,

Thank you for explaining this. I was sure its the same thing with different gui, but it all makes sense now

rambos ,

Yeah, that will work. It sounds like answer to OPs question, but I have no clue why would someone need that unless there is no client app for that device.

CAD Software Suggestion

I am currently on win10 but have been toying with mint and liking it. I intend on fully switching over soon. I have also been toying with the idea of some simple 3D modeling, like making custom parts for projects around my house. Maybe using a CAD software to generate stls for a 3D print or using it to spec out parts for a...

rambos ,

Im trying to move from windows to linux and from solidworks to freecad completely. Its not easy at all, even SW 2008 is so advanced. Im not giving up tho 😉

How do you build complex shapes? ( i.imgur.com )

I've made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It's an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is ... until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That's when I feel it would've been neat to use parametric CAD instead....

rambos ,

Complex shapes (example: car bumper or PS4 controller) are made in CAD using surfaces. I recommend starting with basic features before moving to surfaces if you decide to go that route. The models from your picture don't look super complex tbh, it could be done by using basic CAD features (drawing cross section(s), extruding, using shell feature, chamfer, maybe some revolve, sweep, loft etc).

I could model these quite easy in Solidworks (a lot of experience), but it would be time consuming in FreeCAD (still learning and trying to force myself to use it instead of SW)

rambos ,

Why doesn't it just go through the center of the hole in the nozzle?

If you are asking about printing with bigger nozzle size than filament diameter, there should be positive pressure in all parts of hotend and filament is just moving slower where bigger cross section is. I don't have experience with this kind of printing tho.

Btw, where did you find that nozzle is 2 mm? In video they mentioned printing 2 mm layer height, but that doesn't define the nozzle size. You can print different layer widths and heights with the same nozzle. Good cross section is recommended for decent layer bond, but it looks like they are just laying the filament down with no squish.

For proper 2 mm layer height I guess we need 4 mm nozzle and 6 kg hotend/extruder lol

rambos ,

Thx for the link!

rambos ,

Interesting comparison with water gun, but that would be equivalent of extruding in the air (even then I see it possible if the nozzle is not way too big). Think about connecting water pipe to a bigger diameter pipe. Water would fill the whole volume and it would just move slower if flow is laminar. There is also filament infront of the nozzle while printing so that should provide resistance (plus friction in the nozzle) to allow pressure build up. Nozzle shape might be important here, but I guess they just drilled 2.4 mm hole all the way through.

I obviously don't know much about this nozzle, I'm not trying to teach anyone, I'm just having fun brainstorming and hopefully learning something new

rambos ,

That confuses me as well, I guess they changed docs in meantime. Anyway, here is my working env:

UPLOAD_LOCATION=/srv/disk/immich/
IMMICH_VERSION=v1.103.1
TYPESENSE_API_KEY=zzXYL9UUjX6CV3T8y7f
DB_PASSWORD=xxx123immich
DB_HOSTNAME=immich_postgres
DB_USERNAME=postgres
DB_DATABASE_NAME=immich
DB_DATA_LOCATION=/home/config/immich/db
REDIS_HOSTNAME=immich_redis
rambos ,

Im no expert, but will share my experience. I used to host (2 years) on rpi4 4GB and can't recommend because it was painfull with USB drives. It works fine for many peeps, but I ended up using it as 2nd DNS server.

Eventually I built DIY desktop PC (a year ago) with celeron G3930 (with quick sync) and no GPU. Runs perfectly fine for multiple 1080p streams, but I never tried 4k. Its dirt cheap hardware and its much better than rpi (imo) because it has sata ports. It runs 30-40 services ans drains around 30W (with 2 SSDs and 1 HDD) from the wall

rambos ,

Simmilar problem here. It was working fine (on PopOS) until I replaced GPU GTX 1060 for RX570 a month ago. It happened only few times and powering off/on using monitor button worked. I guess Nvidia was handling it better for some reason

Are filament vacuum bags worthwhile?

I finally got a filament drying box and I'm using it prior to and during prints. It seems to be helping. I'm a bit of a color queen, so I keep a pretty big backlog of different filaments. I've been storing them in vacuum bags but the vacuum bags often seem to lose some of their vacuum after a few months; the whole process is a...

rambos ,

I don't think its a big deal if vacuum bags get lose, they are still protecting the filament. Just vacuum them again and put some silica gel inside.

rambos ,

because I installed a Windows spell checker

If you intend to cast spells from a window you are already more advanced witch than most of us. I dont understand why you want to check your spells at first place, just shoot some and ask people how it feels

Haha sorry for trolling, but it sounded like that to me for some reason and I couldnt stop laughing. Its probably funny only to me, but im posting it anyway 😂

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