I've done a lot of experiments with toner transfer and etching my own boards. The highest accuracy with the smallest clearance I can achieve is with old inkjet photo paper in my old HP laser printer. I have tried several different photo papers. They all act a little differently, but they all take up far more toner powder from the drum roller. I'm not sure why. It can be a pain to get the paper backing off of some of them, but when it comes to etching, it approaches photoresist levels using the typical overhead transparencies.
Just an idea to throw out there. This looks great already.
I'm pretty happy with the transparencies tbh. Although on mine, there seems to be two sides, one that gives a fuzzy dirty effect with a lot of stray toner around the actual print (looks like static), and the other side that gives perfectly crisp prints. Unfortunately I can't really tell the sides apart.
Apart from that small speck of dust that prevented the transfer at the top left of the logo, the sheet came out perfectly clean, the totality of the toner was transferred to the dial. For PCB transfers where you could probably keep the sheet intact (I had to cut mine to fit between the applied indices), that would also mean the sheet would be almost indefinitely reusable.
Be careful with inkjet photo paper in a laser printer. In particular, the glossy paper will typically have a coating that may come off in the laser printer due to the heat and pressure the printer uses, and that can cause issues over time.
I've built a Voron 2.4 350, and own an SV08. I'm currently working on a detailed teardown/analysis/reverse-engineering of the SV08.
From a user perspective, there haven't been any deal-breakers so far, but certainly some annoyances. In short:
The filament path between the extruder and hotend is poorly-constrained, making it a pain to load
The auto-z calibration is often just a smidge off
The fans are absurdly loud. All of them.
The camera is meh
It uses a custom nozzle/heater
The bed is a bit thin
The mainboard is effectively a BTT CB1 and Fystec Cheetah on a single board
Their software customizations are of dubious quality
Their OrcaSlicer profiles are... fine. Just fine.
That being said, there are also many nice touches and good attention to detail in other areas. Overall, I'm satisfied with my purchase, but don't buy it to upgrade (aside from the mainboard fan). There be dragons.
If a Voron 2.4 fits in your budget, get a Voron 2.4. if not, the SV08 is a good choice if you can live with those annoyances, and especially if you are comfortable with third-party firmware mods (whenever they come out).
As an aside: based on my analysis of the mainboard, I strongly suspect Sovol is working on an MMU for the SV08.
For reference, I've had a (heavily modded) Creality Ender 3 V2 for a few years, and I've hit a limit in terms of speed and quality.
The filament path between the extruder and hotend is poorly-constrained, making it a pain to load
The auto-z calibration is often just a smidge off
It uses a custom nozzle/heater
If it's possible to install a Stealthburner instead of the standard extruder/hotend combo, it might solve most of these issues. Maybe some people are working on a V6 or Mk8 style hotend (I have a metric fuckton of Mk8 nozzles laying around)...
The fans are absurdly loud. All of them.
OK Noctua upgrades then. Compared to an already absurdly loud Ender 3, is it worse?
The mainboard is effectively a BTT CB1 and Fystec Cheetah on a single board
Their software customizations are of dubious quality
Would a Voron-style mainboard + RPi + standard Klipper solve these issues or are there fundamental incompatibilities?
All of those upgrades are absolutely doable. Given the price of those upgrades, all-in, a Voron will be a better value. Unless you have most of the parts already, anyway.
Although, I wouldn't bother changing out the board unless you have specific needs. Firmware and config tweaks will take care of most issues I've seen with it.
The fan is probably on par with stock ender 3. But always-on.
How would you rate your Voron for regular maintenance and calibration requirements? I got started on an Ender 3 V2 which I have tinkered a lot with. At some point I lost the fun in with the constant tinkering and calibration and simply want a printer that once built is rock solid and relible.
Typically I would say prusa printers fit this requirement but at the same time I really like the amount of options that my klipper installation gives me. Also I kind of want a cube style printer to allow for an enclosure with air filtering which would lock me into the prusa xl as the only choice.
If a Voron is mostly maintenance free it would be a great alternative for my requirements
I have the LDO Rev. C kit, and it is rock-solid. They're releasing the Rev. D kit soon, and I can only imagine that'll be even more refined. I printed my own parts using a combination of Phaetus aeWorthy ABS-GF and 3DXTech ABS-CF.
If your printed parts are good-quality, you follow the directions precisely, and stick to the kit (no mods beyond the LDO-provided ones), I see no reason it shouldn't provide years of trouble-free service.
Yeah, I did the LDO kit, revision C. I'm very happy with the quality of the kit and included options/mods.
However, the documentation is... fragmented. It all exists, but it's spread across the official Voron build guide, the Stealthburner build guide, and the LDO print guide, addendum, wiring guide, etc. Super annoying. And there's no canonical part checklist, so it's easy to accidentally print unnecessary parts.
That seems to be a problem with most kits, though, so more of a heads-up.
LDO is releasing their revision D of the kit soon, so you can either wait for that or get a discount on a clearance revision C kit. I know KB3D is supposed to have them 20% off soon if not already (no affiliation, I just chatted with them at MRRF).
That's the kit I was considering! I figure if their motors are alright they probably are reliable for the other parts. Thank you for all that and the suggestion for discounts!
Goddammit why did you have to show me that kobo now sells a color e-reader? I just bought the Clara 2E last year. Is that one rebranded now to the Clara BW or is that a new model?
Anyway, how is the color display? I looked into color ereaders a year or so ago and the general consensus was that the tech wasn't really ready
I have both (cuz I’m selling the case and needed to test), and I’m working on a video review for it.
Tldw for the video is this. Clara BW is a Clara 2e,, processor, ram, and storage are spec exactly the same, even the power button and sleep sensor is the same position. It only took me 9 days to make these since I reused the sleep cover from my 2e case design. However it’s a little snappier, making it on par with the latest Kindle for books. Still slow for comics.
The e-reader shown is the Clara color, despite the spec bump feels exactly the same as the Clara BW. Unless you read colored books like magazines, comics, or textbooks it’s not worth the upgrade. Kobo really needed more than 16GB of storage.
That said I was never a fan of Kobo so the Clara color is the first one I actually like.
Thanks, that's interesting to know. Personally I never had an issue with the 16GB but I mainly read epubs so space isn't that much of a concern for me. I can see why that would be different on a color model which would also be used for comic books.
If you don't like kobo, which brand do you prefer? My previous reader was a tolino, which nowadays is almost the same hardware as a kobo but android based instead of linux. Personally I much prefer the kobo over that one.
16GB is more than enough for most written books, ranging from 1-3MB. But for comics they can range from 93MB to 250MB or more. As such while you can have 5000+ Books on your Kobo, you can only have 65 comics, and considering how large some manga series are, that's not enough to keep everything on the same device.
My gripe with Kobo is how they organize their books, and while I could organize them into collections, for DRM free books, they don't store them in the system, so if I remove and re-add a book to my e-reader, I have to manually re-add them to the collection. But in truth no e-reader is perfect, the closest I found is the Pocketbook, since they offer SD Card support, but I opted for the Onyx Boox Nova 3 Color. I like the fact I can write on it, like a remarkable tablet, it's running Android so I can get a lot of utility out of it. But I don't like the fact that it's a chinese android tablet stuck on Android 10 with no OS updates in sight, and the lack of Micro SD Card support (though USB support is nice).
Oh yes, the organization is inconvenient if you sideload stuff. The tolino I had automatically grouped books in the same folder into a collection.
I managed to get something similar working with the autoshelf mod on the kobo but it is inconvenient that it is not a default feature. On the upside, I can also use the autoshelf mod to parse series information based on the books filename.
On the topic of modding, I believe kobos use an sd card internally for storage which you can technically change for a much larger one but that requires opening the device, cloning the existing card and expanding the filesystsm. Not to mention that the water resistance will most likely suffer from that process
Here is the link to the forum post of the autoshelf mod.
It says its for the Aura but I have it working on the Clara 2E and I believe someone reported it also working on the Libra or whatever the 7 inch model was called.
It's a simple to install but unfortunately a bit fiddly in my opinion.
When you plug the reader in via usb, a symbol appears on the device screen that you can tap to run autoshelf upon usb disconnect. Unfortunately it only works on books that have already been added to the device, so you have to plug your reader in twice. Once to transfer the books and a second time to run autoshelf on the added books.
I also use NickelMenu in which I added a button to run autoshelf without having the USB plugged in. My script works by pretending the USB was plugged in, thereby showing me the usb screen and allowing me to tap the autoshelf symbol and then waiting for around 10-15 seconds before "unplugging" the USB again which causes the autoshelf to execute.
That's the fun thing about the Kobo being linux based. Once you get shell access the flood gates are open.
I transfer my books over SFTP instead of plugging in USB everytime and then execute the book scan from NickelMenu.
I bought the Kobo Libra Color and I love it so far. Previously I've had various Kindles and a Meeebook P78, and I like the Kobo a lot better so far. And I'm still just using it for B&W books at the moment.
The color is pretty faded, as you'd expect from e-ink. But I do enjoy that the book covers are in color.
I was actually hoping this was going to be a cover for my model, but oh well. :)
I got my first SLA printer last year and can confirm, do not get this if you don’t have good ventilation or space away from you.
I print exclusively with water washable resins which are less potent in smell and IIRC toxicity too, and it still smells and the smell still gives me a headache if I try to do something quick without my mask. The smell lingers around the printer when printing even hours after putting on the top cover. I’m working on a solution to air it out through a dryer duct but I don’t think that will be the end all either.
Go with an FDM and print PLA until you have a better arrangement at home. Avoid ABS printing because it has similar effects and dangers for your health as resin printing.
I will say for ABS this can be mitigated with the following:
An enclosure (I use a comgrow grow tent)
Not opening the printer enclosure for at least 20 minutes (so the airborne particulates settle down)
A replaceable carbon filter (I built a Nevermore duo and bought some activated Charcoal to refill it with)
After doing the above I don’t smell fumes at all. In fact I run the Nevermore even with PLA just to capture any micro particles since the charcoal is easy enough to replace.
Even so, as cool as Resin looks, I’m not having that stuff inside my house with my family. If I did it would have to be in a garage that’s vented but I have a carport and there’s no way I can regulate the environment (temp, humidity) for decent prints. So for now I’m just going with FDM
and just posta screenshot of the sliced model that the slicer should show you, makes it much easier to recognize trivial errors like wrong orientation.
Creality ender 5 s1
Creality slicer
High detail profile
(Infill % 15, speed 100, nozzle temp 205, bed temp 60, z axis 0.1)
PLA
These were the default with no changes.
I am not sure what other parameters can be changed.
I will post a screenshot tonight. I did notice that 99% of the time is on the outer wall, this is where I noticed the pauses when I simulate the print.
I'm sure the official slicer will have a good profile, maybe the speed for outer walls accidentally got changed to 1 mm/s? I don't usually use Cura (that is what their slicer is based on), but I think to change speeds at all you need to hit "show advanced" or something? So if you didn't change anything, that is even less likely.
If it's real pauses (print head stops completely), I have even less ideas what that could be.
When I get back home I can try to see what I get with your settings, probably just resetting everything should also work for you though.
I model exclusively with OpenSCAD and a shit ton of math. (Full disclosure, for some of the most absolutely complex things I've done, I've written Go code to generate OpenSCAD code. But it's not often that I need that.) And I make some pretty complex things. I'm currently working off-and-on on a 3d-printable mechanical keyboard, for instance.
OpenSCAD, in case you don't know, is a straight up programming language for doing CAD. It doesn't even provide you the option to adjust anything with the mouse.
I remember ordering some samples from them when they were a newer company, and how cool it was when they added metal as a material option. Sad to see them go. Seems like much more of another company ruined by going public than a failure of their business model. I guess the silver lining is that they simply went under rather than morphing into a worst possible version of what they were trying to squeeze every penny in the pursuit of infinite growth (or maybe they tried that for a while and it failed too, I'll admit I haven't been paying attention to the scene for the last several years).
You're four forks deep now
Slic3r to Prusa Slicer to Bamboo's slicer to Orca. It also borrowed a lot of ideas from Super Slicer. Since it's open source, and has been gaining some momentum, it seems to have a decent amount of contributors
Why Orca?
all the features you know and love from things up the tree
a revamped UI
built in tuning tests (temp tower, extrusion multiplier, volumetric flow, pressure advance, etc)
The UI of Prusa slicer is hot garbage though. I started with prusa slicer and moved to orca after a few months. Orca is a much nicer experience, and the built-in test-models (temp towers etc.) are nice.
In find the location and grouping of parameters more intuitive in orca. I always had to look through several tabs to find the parameter I wanted to adjust when I was using prusa, it was never where I thought it should be.
One thing to be aware of is if your filament gets too humid and you dry it out it won't perform the same as when it was fresh. It will perform better, but not like new. In addition to drying mine out I make sure to store it in a sealed container filled with desiccants. I just take them from various packages and throw them in there. I bought a huge tub from Menards a white back that has a rubber or foam gasket to help keep the humidity out. Just a regular lid only helps so much. The tub wasn't expensive and I have like 10-15 1kg rolls in there.
In USA I usually get Printed solid's Jesse and 3D Printing Canada's Budget PLA. I also pick up a couple rolls of Inland any time I'm by my local Microcenter
Filament sourcing is pretty region specific. Where are you buying from?
You could try Ondsel, the trimmed UI makes it easier to use than Freecad in my opinion, the learning curve is still steep tho. No account needed if you get it on GitHub: https://github.com/Ondsel-Development/FreeCAD/releases
You could also take a look at Plasticity, seems very intuitive to use and should work well with your clicky workflow, it's a one time payment and has a Linux version. I don't have any personal experience with it, but there is a trial version so you can try it before investing any money. https://www.plasticity.xyz
Plasticity is a pretty cool application that's growing pretty quickly and offers perpetual licenses, so you retain access to the program once your maintenance period expires. I think it has a ton of potential to become very useful for the 3d printing space that doesn't necessarily require the full power of a pure CAD application but needs more than something purely art-focused like 3d modeling software.
One of the greatest things is the dev takes a lot of input from the community when deciding what features are added. There's a whole website for suggesting and voting on features to be added and several of them have already been put into development and implemented already. And on top of all that it's, comparatively, affordable. I'm still learning it so I don't know the full limitations of it's usefulness for 3d printing but to me it seems very capable.
Yep, you'll never get it perfect, but a smaller layer height will make the steps less noticeable. Adaptive layer height in cura if you use that can help, but adds a mortal age to the length of the print.
Consider post processing steps if you really need smooth parts. Sandable fillers, special paints, epoxy coatings, or just a bunch of sanding. I've had good luck with XTC-3D. It's an epoxy you paint on that's specifically designed for smoothing prints.
You could also consider a resin printer if you need smooth. They are their own can of worms, but the resolution and smoothness is good.
Let the bed cool down all the way, ya little gremlin! If you absolutely can't wait, put the bed on a tile floor and your print should pop off on it's own pretty quick.
If it is a removable bed, pop that bad boy in the freezer for a bit and the print should pop off. If not then you may want to try some glue stick on the bed before a print which will help the print release since it'll pull off the glue.
This is a glass bed on an Ender that I am doing this on. I haven't had any issues with scratching the bed whatsoever. Mild steel is actually softer than glass so it might actually be harder to scratch than you might think. Your mileage may vary though.
3DPrinting
Top
This magazine is not receiving updates (last activity 0 day(s) ago).