Currently, Prusa is doing a terrible job with the Printables competition, to the point where they could be in legal trouble if someone were to push for it....
More the opposite. The sloppy way they moderate it to the point where they don't even bother to remove comment spam below the contest description page.
Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it.
Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it.
That's not how it works. There is no public vote.
Honestly I stopped reading. Something about a paid part integration that you got mad about because it’s heavily discounted and you can submit photos even if you don’t have one or something?
Btw. I don't take part in them but it is still very ugly what they do. Similiar you don't need to buy Nestle to understand that Nestle might be problematic in some aspect.
The disclaimer says they’re trying to get it approved which implies they believe it could be
That's a tough one and I doubt they will succeed with this. As far as I know, they would need to certify a material + process (3d-printer & settings, slicer-software & settings) + 3D-model combination. Far easier to certify a product containing 3D-printed parts than a 3D model/file.
Don't think I've seen this before. Don't even think the author has things for sale from what I can tell. Couldn't find an obvious option on any of my models to toggle this either....
Total clog with prusament pla in line. Can't feed anything through even at high heat. Cold pull not possible / filament not making it into hot end to do this....
If cold pulls won't work get a new nozzle. Filament of choice for this procedure is Nylon.
One of the alternatives could be THF to dissolve the plastic and go from there. Don't know what Prusa charges for nozzles but it can't be that bad to make this procedure worth it. After all it is a Prusa and not some industrial machine.
With mainsail and klipper, you can cancel one failed part mid-print and keep going on the rest of the parts.
There is an addon for Duet (RRF) but I can't get it working. Anyway, once it is time for a batch print the first testprint has been completed successfully and build plate adhesion is a non-issue on this printer.
You have to tell it the dimensions of your extruded head, so it doesn’t crash the part
Ask me how I destroyed two z-endstops this year (very asymmetrical toolhead and Prusa can't be configured to reflect this and with a "radius" large enough it would block half of the printbed (60mm radius or so) meaning eyeballing is the best option).
I only use this option if I need the part before the entire batch is finished and don't want to start multiple prints. Which isn't frequent.
Prusa is very slow compared to Cura as PrusaSlicer needs every option checked including Geometry handling accurate to sometimes get 7 pcs. matching Cura performance. If the result is 7 or 6 pcs. depends on where the part originally was placed on the print bed (or luck? run to run variance?). Not a reliable software for nesting.
With fast and balanced setting it only does 6 pcs.
The best protection is a machine that is well build:
We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.
Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn't require an automatic fire extinguisher.
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.
I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.
What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That's just three examples and don't expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.
Once you teardown "industrial"/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, ... they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire...
Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50'000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.
While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don't need fire suppression systems.
Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)
Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won't need it.
Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don't have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).
I have recently obtained a friend's old Formlabs Form 2 SLA printer. I I am an absolute beginner to printing, but I am pretty excited to get into it....
laser -> "special" resin required. Formlabs recently moved on to LCDs meaning in the years to come the last third-party manufacturers will stop producing those resins as demand further declines. Leaving the first-party FormLabs as the only option ($100+/kg).
Difficult to maintain resin tank. Requires a vacuum oven and an upfront investment of roughly $150 for chemicals. There are conversion kits/prints for FEP film to resolve this limitation.
I've made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It's an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is ... until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That's when I feel it would've been neat to use parametric CAD instead....
If you consider sharing mechanical design concepts as not in line with the spirit it's fine but others are likely interested in seeing how things work and takes it as inspiration for their designs.
Go and recreate it. Nobody stops you. Could provide the STL but wouldn't be worth a lot as this is so dialed (tolerances) that it comes down to the specific printer/extrusion system. There are older revisions with huge tolerances (0.4mm) that work but wear down rapidly. To print this exact version it needs to be capable of printing with 0.23mm gap/tolerance between parts.
v10 should still be 0.4mm tolerances (easy to print) on all sides and working. Otherwise not a great design but enough for you to understand that there are dozens of parameters to tune in such a "simple" mechanism and it is (nearly) impossible to nail it on the first try. Have we started talking about optimizing the force required to break it loose? That's one more thing that needs to be accounted for.
I think you still somehow assume this is some kind of ad to sell this design for money or I am a jerk for not just publishing it with source files.
Also not everybody spends their time designing and publishing whatever is popular at the moment on Makerworld to collect points/store credit. There is a different world that doesn't run on Fusion360 source file most people could edit and can design parts with a particular material & print(farm)/process in mind to get the most out of the FFF 3D-printing process.
The teeth is indeed a critical aspect. It has to be symmetrical as this assembly is mirrored to block the rotation in the other direction.
An alternative to this would be printing the spring with the contact surface separately and inserting it into this print (pause at layer height, insert part, continue print) allowing other geometries (that would overlap with the teeth if printed in place) and pretension. The downside is it's a manual task and one more separate part to keep track of.
This is small and the tolerances of the center hub cause the teeths/"gear" to move approx. 0.3-0.5mm of centre. This means what you see in the CAD/slicer isn't how it will look once printed. I had to narrow the gap down as much as I could to get the largest contact area. If you make it a sled on one side there is less material/surface area.
A further consequence is that the tip of it doesn't touch anything as such you could remove the very tip to adjust the sound signature. The feeling is slightly changed but primarily this replaced the high-pitched plastic sound with a deep tone.
The nice aspect is that in the blocking position, it is a solid connection meaning it can take as much load as the teeth (tip) can support (hence the trying to maximize the contact area there). The spring element is only there to return this blocking "bolt" into position after a teeth passes through.
Printing fast/without cooling can also go the other way:
By printing very fast the last layer may still be "hot" when the new layer is added. As the temperature differential is smaller there is less stress within the part once it is cooled down.
Regardless of the scanner use matting spray. Either a commercial that evaporates or baby powder + IPA or baking powder.
OpenScan was already meantioned by somebody else.
The CR scan otter won't work for small parts and the CR-scan software isn't great for example there isn't an undo button to remove the last x seconds of bad scan data.
OpenScan is a opensource project for smaller objects. With the PS5 maybe a Creality CR-Scan but it's quality will be borderline unusable for a shape like a PS5 panel. So after all the entry scanner for a job like this could be a Shining Einstar.
Good news: If you own an iPhone try it's lidar first. Creality CR-Scan is only slightly better than iPhones. With Android phone, you could try photogrammetry but to scan the PS5 part you would need matting spray and even more tracker (small dots glued to the surface).
Btw. Somebody somewhere at some point in time already scanned or modeled the PS5 side panel. As starting point check GrabCAD and thingiverse for a 3D-model.
With 3D printers like the Open-5x or tool changers (e.g. Prusa XL) both, 5-axis simultaneous 3D-printing as well as hybrid manufacturing (additive followed up by subtractive), is more accessible than they ever were....
BambuLab wants to be the Apple of 3D-printing. So they simplified and decided the factory bed level with auto bed leveling/compensation is good enough for the user.
On high end printers there is just no need to level them. The factory does it and the bed won't move at all due to the excellent mechanical designs.
Everything else? They have it to level the corners of the bed and use automatic bed leveling/correction to get it perfect and adjust for build plate imperfections.
There is one system that does level the bed but doesn't need the knobs as each of the three mounting points is connected to an independent z-axis (kinematic bed): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgkK7Fez8VU
Right now looking into bang for the buck workhorses with a small footprint/build volume. A description that fit the Prusa mini+ perfectly in the past, but it feels like Prusa is a dinosaur that hasn’t moved with the times....
I do care and that's why at 400€ I would go with them but with 320€ vs. 520€ you have to put a lot of emphasis on this point.
As compromise to split it between Prusa and BambuLab isn't feasible either. You want a standardized setup to keep it simple. Meaning all Prusa or all BambuLab.
Let's talk about Prusa Printables contests. It might need some fixing.
Currently, Prusa is doing a terrible job with the Printables competition, to the point where they could be in legal trouble if someone were to push for it....
How often do you lubricate the linear guides?
I am curious how often do you service the linear rails on the 3D-printer:...
Printable make posting locked behind purchase? ( lemmy.world )
Don't think I've seen this before. Don't even think the author has things for sale from what I can tell. Couldn't find an obvious option on any of my models to toggle this either....
help with clogged Mk4 hotend?
Total clog with prusament pla in line. Can't feed anything through even at high heat. Cold pull not possible / filament not making it into hot end to do this....
Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)
Short overview of how good the nesting capabilities of various 3D slicer are....
Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet ( lemm.ee )
Hey 3D printing fellas,...
Resin Printing: Good for a Beginner with Limited Space?
I have recently obtained a friend's old Formlabs Form 2 SLA printer. I I am an absolute beginner to printing, but I am pretty excited to get into it....
How do you build complex shapes? ( i.imgur.com )
I've made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It's an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is ... until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That's when I feel it would've been neat to use parametric CAD instead....
SBC Case Builder v3.0 can create thousands of cases for popular SBCs and standard motherboards ( www.cnx-software.com )
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/16042365...
Print in place ratchet design ( lemmy.ml )
After half a dozen iterations, this was the first reasonably working, acceptable feeling, and good-sounding ratchet mechanism....
[SOLVED] Trouble with ASA prints ( sopuli.xyz )
[SOLVED] cause: not enough cooling for overhangs...
Need some advice on scanning
I’m having a bit of a hard time with this, but I also acknowledge this is still relatively niche still....
Shape optimized spoolholder ( lemmy.ml )
Quick and dirty 5 minutes craft:...
How do you model complex curves? ( kbin.run )
Can someone explain or point me towards a good tutorial that explains how to match complex curves, like the PS5 side panels?...
Why do 3D printer manufacturers not get the details right? e.g. rotation indicator on bed levelling wheels ( lemmy.ml )
Building a 3D printer is easy. Getting the details right to build a great 3D printer is hard, as this is where most companies fail. Why?...
For those venturing into 5-axis 3D printing and hybrid manufacturing, what is your tool chain?
With 3D printers like the Open-5x or tool changers (e.g. Prusa XL) both, 5-axis simultaneous 3D-printing as well as hybrid manufacturing (additive followed up by subtractive), is more accessible than they ever were....
Why do some 3D printer beds require turning knobs on the bottom for leveling?
On my ender 3 I have to turn the knobs on the bottom for leveling....
Extruder with a cleaning brush (industrial desktop 3D-printer) ( lemmy.ml )
The extruder of the 3Dgence P255 3d-printer features a brush to clean the extruder gear.
One of those permanent temporary fixes. ( lemmy.ml )
Needed as soon as possible a spool holder for larger spools so printing anything that is dozens of hours was out of the question....
How do I fix this Prusaslicer output? ( lemmy.ml )
With this particular model, Prusaslicer is very optimistic about bridging and support generation:...
What is your favourite camera setup? ( lemmy.ml )
What cameras did you add to your 3D printer?...
Would you still buy a Prusa Mini+?
Right now looking into bang for the buck workhorses with a small footprint/build volume. A description that fit the Prusa mini+ perfectly in the past, but it feels like Prusa is a dinosaur that hasn’t moved with the times....