Any particular reason? That's a 10 (ish) year old design. Outside of nostalgia or deliberately checking out designs from that era, I see very little reason to pick this as a project.
No particular reason. I am most interested in a project with a high proportion of printed material to purchased material, but I don’t know the best way to find a modern design like that. Do you have any recommendations?
I think the typical recommendation would be "the 100" (Link to GitHub). There are a few other projects like it. I think that should be a good starting point for a search though if that particular one is not your cup of tea.
We're in the age of easily accessible, great quality hardware though. Just from a performance point, 3d printing will be worse in most respects comparatively (still "good enough" though if using a modem design). Look at a Voron V0 kit as an example (or one of the other printers for ants, if you're looking for more complexity). Uses nothing but readily accessible parts, reasonably priced and incredible performance.
It will be a lot of fun, but not a great printer. If you do it for the experience, do it. But you could also go for a prusa i3, maybe with a bear frame. Find some nice electronics instead of a ramps and add a Raspberry for klipper.
I've built several printers from the original RepRap to a Wilson II and a Deltabot. Some of those plans are probably getting on in age. There was a time you couldn't buy a printer for the cost of building a reprap; those days are long gone. An Ender or similiar are so cheap and good now, it's hard to build one of similiar quality. But if you're just looking for a project, fill your boots.
I’m mostly interested in the novelty of a printed printer, it seems like a fun project. I’m all ears for recommendations of more modern or good starter RepRap designs though!
So you want to print the bulk of the print normal but exterior perimiters only in a lower layer height? I don't think any slicers do that but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work and potentially give a higher resolution exterior finish in less time than just lowering the layer height for the whole print.
edit: just saw that someone already pointed out that cura does essentially this but the infill being the focus, and that you already saw it.
Kinda sounds like combine infill layers in prusa/super slicer, that setting will have it do the perimeters as per normal but do infil at 1/2/3 etc layers, so 0.2 layers would get infill every 0.4 at 2, so it'll print the perimeters and anything that can't be merged, go to the next layer and do the perimeters and chunky infill, I use it to save time and I haven't noticed much difference in functionality.
I don't know any slicers that do it exactly as you described. I know that in OrcaSlicer you can print perimeters at set layer height, but infill only everey Xth layer.
Not something easily done with slicers and there are hacks to do things like this but nothing that works out of the box and it’s a tough challenge with various nozzles, toolheads, material shrink properties
Edit: More recent update that could be of interest
I’ve had some luck with attaching silicone pie mat to prints that I wanted to have a grippy surface.
Downside is it picks up any grime, dust, dirt easily. No biggie when you throw a silicone mat in the dishwasher, more of an issue when you can’t do the same with something 3d printed.
Another consideration could be large furniture non slip pads. Something made for putting on the feet of a couch/sofa for example, cut to size?
Smooth the surface? Looks like that texture is from your plate? A smooth pei plate will give you a smoother bottom surface. If you want the top even smoother use ironing. Printing with tpu will give anti-slip properties.
The coasters are double sided.
The printer is not mine and they dont have a smooth PEI plate.
I want the same texture on both sides, so im hoping to do some post processing.
I've done a lot of experiments with toner transfer and etching my own boards. The highest accuracy with the smallest clearance I can achieve is with old inkjet photo paper in my old HP laser printer. I have tried several different photo papers. They all act a little differently, but they all take up far more toner powder from the drum roller. I'm not sure why. It can be a pain to get the paper backing off of some of them, but when it comes to etching, it approaches photoresist levels using the typical overhead transparencies.
Just an idea to throw out there. This looks great already.
I'm pretty happy with the transparencies tbh. Although on mine, there seems to be two sides, one that gives a fuzzy dirty effect with a lot of stray toner around the actual print (looks like static), and the other side that gives perfectly crisp prints. Unfortunately I can't really tell the sides apart.
Apart from that small speck of dust that prevented the transfer at the top left of the logo, the sheet came out perfectly clean, the totality of the toner was transferred to the dial. For PCB transfers where you could probably keep the sheet intact (I had to cut mine to fit between the applied indices), that would also mean the sheet would be almost indefinitely reusable.
Be careful with inkjet photo paper in a laser printer. In particular, the glossy paper will typically have a coating that may come off in the laser printer due to the heat and pressure the printer uses, and that can cause issues over time.
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