The disclaimer says they’re trying to get it approved which implies they believe it could be
That's a tough one and I doubt they will succeed with this. As far as I know, they would need to certify a material + process (3d-printer & settings, slicer-software & settings) + 3D-model combination. Far easier to certify a product containing 3D-printed parts than a 3D model/file.
More the opposite. The sloppy way they moderate it to the point where they don't even bother to remove comment spam below the contest description page.
Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it.
Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it.
That's not how it works. There is no public vote.
Honestly I stopped reading. Something about a paid part integration that you got mad about because it’s heavily discounted and you can submit photos even if you don’t have one or something?
Btw. I don't take part in them but it is still very ugly what they do. Similiar you don't need to buy Nestle to understand that Nestle might be problematic in some aspect.
If cold pulls won't work get a new nozzle. Filament of choice for this procedure is Nylon.
One of the alternatives could be THF to dissolve the plastic and go from there. Don't know what Prusa charges for nozzles but it can't be that bad to make this procedure worth it. After all it is a Prusa and not some industrial machine.
Prusa is very slow compared to Cura as PrusaSlicer needs every option checked including Geometry handling accurate to sometimes get 7 pcs. matching Cura performance. If the result is 7 or 6 pcs. depends on where the part originally was placed on the print bed (or luck? run to run variance?). Not a reliable software for nesting.
With fast and balanced setting it only does 6 pcs.
With mainsail and klipper, you can cancel one failed part mid-print and keep going on the rest of the parts.
There is an addon for Duet (RRF) but I can't get it working. Anyway, once it is time for a batch print the first testprint has been completed successfully and build plate adhesion is a non-issue on this printer.
You have to tell it the dimensions of your extruded head, so it doesn’t crash the part
Ask me how I destroyed two z-endstops this year (very asymmetrical toolhead and Prusa can't be configured to reflect this and with a "radius" large enough it would block half of the printbed (60mm radius or so) meaning eyeballing is the best option).
I only use this option if I need the part before the entire batch is finished and don't want to start multiple prints. Which isn't frequent.
Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50'000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.
While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don't need fire suppression systems.
Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)
Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won't need it.
Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don't have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).
I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.
What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That's just three examples and don't expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.
Once you teardown "industrial"/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, ... they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire...
The best protection is a machine that is well build:
We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.
Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn't require an automatic fire extinguisher.
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.