They sell PSU testers for $15-20. I bought one years ago and it still serves me well. You plug in the 24-pin and the other power connectors and it will tell you where it's faults lie. If none, then the motherboard should be scrutinized next.
Capacitors exist all over your system. They are on nearly every component. Look for them and then look for the bulge out the top. There are reliefs (a big X) in the top of the capacitor to allow it to "blow" out that direction. Sometimes it only bulges and does not blow, but that's enough for failure. If you open your PSU, try not to root around too much with your fingers. Be cautious of the power load that might remain. Visually inspect the caps. It might only be a slight bulge or none at all, but the caps can still die.
I'd lend you a PSU, so maybe you have a friend close who might too? You may still consider buying a new PSU to allow for future upgrades and put the old one on the shelf as a spare or for other purposes. That is, if the PSU is fine. It is still possible the motherboard is at fault, but again with these symptoms, it would likely be a cap.
I always thought that PSU testers were way more expensive but it's good to know you can buy them relatively cheap. Honestly I'm curious if such a tester would detect anything. Currently the PSU works just fine under heavy load (CPU + GPU stress test). It only happens when I turn off the PC or put it to sleep so low or little to none power draw.
I haven't seen any bad caps on the GPU or motherboard so I'll see on the PSU (obviously with caution).
With GPU it's an easy swap so I once exchanged GPUs with my friend to see if GPU is causing crashes (it was RAM btw) but with PSU I feel it's a lot of work to unplug everything so I don't want to bother them too much. I ordered an MSI 800W PSU. I have two weeks to return it if I want but your idea of having a spare is a good one.
I've had PSUs with odd issues that still worked for the most part, but when I tested them (with my tester) they reflected a weak voltage on one segment or some other failure. But it would still sorta work. These testers do work.
Mine is very similar to the one in this Corsair PSU testing guide. I think it was $15.
They also have a script patcher that makes it so you can use any font. A really useful feature if you replace fonts in programs or games, but the program doesn't fall back to a safe font if a character isn't supported.
21:9 ultrawide for main desktop and gaming and 16:9 to the side for discord, browser, whatever else is plenty for me. Also that's all that will fit on my desk arms lol.
Similar set up for me. But 21:9 is my desktop, so discord, web browser, anything that is lower quality. Then my 16:9 is my gaming and high quality content screen.
This is because my 21:9 monitor is a bit older now, and a 144hz VA panel, and I hate it for games. My new 16:9 is an OLED and 240hz and it is absolutely gorgeous. I also mostly play fighting games, so anything more than 16:9 is just black, well in the case of the VA panel grey and a bunch of light bleed.
Single ulttawide using two inputs. So use split screen each half using separate cable and then joined together again as single desktop. The advantage is that you can easiliy maximise a window to half of the screen or share only half of your screen in teams etc. But still have a single big desktop where you can drag windows from one side to the others.
From docking station that has multiple outputs but I guess could also work very well with split screen from onboard graphics card.
Only downside I see is if you want to have a full screen game from dedicated graphics card you need to switch off the split screen on the monitor menu.
I've used multiple monitors (2-3) for the longest time. Switched to a widescreen last year and never looked back. Now I just use one monitor plus my laptop as an extra screen for static apps.
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