They have a lot of products, including other fans and thermostats. I've had their media cabinet fans running 24/7 for 4-5 years now with no problems. Highly recommend it.
You've gotten a lot of good answers, so I'm going to do some out of the box thinking - maybe it will spark a few ideas.
Goal:
self hosted server on boat
Issues:
size
power
corrosion
So if I were going to do this myself, I'd start with a pelican or other similar watertight container. We don't want the equipment getting wet, and we don't want it exposed to the salty air.
I'd probably pick a usff computer, like a dell 9020 or maybe a framework motherboard. To get the storage, I'd get one of these to add multiple sata ports to the computer. Then its a matter of getting a bunch of ssds and powering them. I think the 12v goal is going to be too restrictive, most laptops need 19v to charge, so I'd just bite the bullet and get an inverter. If you're really tight on power you could go with a pi, but the framework motherboard/usff both use mobile processors, and shouldn't draw too much while idle.
Any wires that pass though to the case should be made through waterproof bulkheads.
Personally I'd nix the HDMI out requirement. One more port to keep track of and it complicates the self hosting. If you want it for media streaming to a TV then I'd recommend a roku and just run a jellyfin server on the computer. If you want it for server debugging I wouldn't bother running it out of the case.
The last thing I'd do is figure out cooling. For this I'd probably create some sort of closed loop heat exchanger from the case to either the outside air or the lake/ocean itself. This could be as simple as a pump running water through two radiators, one in the case and the other outside or just dumped overboard. If you know your power usage ahead of time you might be able to get away with a peltier element, dumping the heat outside the case.
I'd probably put this all on its own power system, get a solar panel, battery, inverter, etc. It could even get topped off by the boat's system if it needs extra juice.
Also whatever you do, I'd figure out a way to ensure you're giving your system a clean and steady 12v.
I've always liked the ultrastar line. Used to be made by HGST and then WD bought them. I'm using specifically the HC530 14tb. The line has a long history of being very reliable enterprise drives.
I've bought mine from both goharddrive and serverpartsdeals. Both are reliable resellers of used storage. They'll warranty the drives for 2 or 5 years depending on which you to with. Prices are ~$130-$150.
Ps. One of the listings for the HC530 on goharddrive or serverpartdeals is incorrectly labels as HC520. Just pay close attention.
As far as raid goes, Raid 10 is currently very popular for its speed and drive failure tolerance. Remember, raid is not a replacement for the 3-2-1 backup rule. Raid has some fault tolerances for bad hard drives, but doesn't protect against a failed raid card, fire, flood, robber, acts of god, etc.
You can also look into zfs and truenas if you feel inclined. Be aware that if you go with this setup, ecc ram is basically a requirement
"The cause is a new SATA specification which includes the ability to disable power to the hard disk. When you look at the SATA power connection on the back of your hard drive, there are 15 pins that make contact with your power supply. It's the third pin that delivers a 3.3V signal that disables the drive. What we need to do is prevent that third pin from making contact with the power cable."
Some hotswap harddrive bays use this feature, definitely more common in enterprise scenarios or in USB HDD enclosures.
There's also a setting for minimum spacing between parts. The default is overly cautious iirc, I'd suggest lowering it and trying again, though I don't expect it to change much
There's two models - the Duet 3 which comes with a Snapdragon 7c Gen 2 @ 2.55 GHz CPU, and the 3i which comes with a Intel Celeron N4020. I would rather use the Duet 3, due to the cover, and since I am already familiar with the feel of the device due to having owned a Surface Pro 4, but I'd like to choose whichever works best...
I'll start this by saying I'm not familiar with either model, but as a general rule, always go x86 when you can. The Intel processor is going to be much better supported. You might get the snapdragon version to run, but it likely isn't supported by mainline Linux.
That being said, touch screen support on Linux is improving rapidly, but still isn't quite there. Make sure you're aware of the user experience before buying so you won't be disappointed.
Also, my unsolicited 2 cents, I would try to avoid buying lenovo. I've had the unfortunate responsibility of fixing a few of their products (an all-in-one and a few laptops, including a new thinkpad) and can confidently say their reliability, and repairability have greatly diminished. They use cheap parts and are in general, poorly designed.
I am currently on win10 but have been toying with mint and liking it. I intend on fully switching over soon. I have also been toying with the idea of some simple 3D modeling, like making custom parts for projects around my house. Maybe using a CAD software to generate stls for a 3D print or using it to spec out parts for a...
Onshape hands down. Browser based so there's no compatibility issues. It's super easy to use and pretty powerful. Its free for hobbiests (the caveat being your models will be publically accessible). We use it exclusively at work and it's been awesome.
Onshape.com
I'd love a good Foss CAD package but there are too many issues with the current ones for me to make the jump.
I'm (probably) switching to Proton Pass from Bitwarden because its easier to create email aliases (all in one instead of making an alias with SimpleLogin, then copying that to Bitwarden and making a password there) but I've heard people saying not to use Proton Pass to not "put all your eggs in one basket". Can someone explain...
A (small) part of not putting all your eggs in one basket is also avoiding vender lock-in. Having your personal email with proton, and your password manager with them makes it very difficult to switch in the future if you need to.
On a side note, I use anonaddy (now Addy.io). It allows you to create email aliases on the fly. So when I sign up for a new account somewhere, I generally make up some email like "[email protected]" for the email and save that right to bitwarden.
Fan & thermostat for cabinet cooling
I want to put some devices like NVR, modem, router, et cetera in a closet....
Server for a boat
Good day, friends. Since catching the self-hosting bug, I've set up a couple of Proxmox home servers with a bunch of services I enjoy....
current best HDD-model choice
Dear lemmings,...
Nesting capabilities of slicer (overview)
Short overview of how good the nesting capabilities of various 3D slicer are....
I'm thinking of buying a Lenovo Duet 3 for running linux. Which device would have better compatibility?
There's two models - the Duet 3 which comes with a Snapdragon 7c Gen 2 @ 2.55 GHz CPU, and the 3i which comes with a Intel Celeron N4020. I would rather use the Duet 3, due to the cover, and since I am already familiar with the feel of the device due to having owned a Surface Pro 4, but I'd like to choose whichever works best...
CAD Software Suggestion
I am currently on win10 but have been toying with mint and liking it. I intend on fully switching over soon. I have also been toying with the idea of some simple 3D modeling, like making custom parts for projects around my house. Maybe using a CAD software to generate stls for a 3D print or using it to spec out parts for a...
Can someone explain the "don't put all your eggs in one basket" argument to me? ( kbin.run )
I'm (probably) switching to Proton Pass from Bitwarden because its easier to create email aliases (all in one instead of making an alias with SimpleLogin, then copying that to Bitwarden and making a password there) but I've heard people saying not to use Proton Pass to not "put all your eggs in one basket". Can someone explain...