DM: "you smell the distinct smell of gas building in the cave."
Player: "I cast fireball."
DM: "Alriiiiight... As the sparks ignite in your hand, the gas explodes, causing a cave in and burying the entire party under a mountain of rock. Congratulations, you are dead."
I hate it when the "and this is where we end the session for tonight" part happens 10 minutes in... once had a high level party teleport to the complete opposite side of the map 10 minutes after starting... That is when I learned what high level really meant.
I love using magic items in place of house rules. It makes it easier for everyone when "house rules" are explicitly spelled out in an item description, and helps prevent players from being confused or surprised about which rules do and do not get enforced and in which way.
To contribute my own D&D 5e specific example: I like to have enchanted weapons that each have access to one or two battlemaster maneuvers per short rest. e.g. Quarterstaff of Tripping (trip attack) or Commander's Longsword (Commander's Strike). To keep it simple, I use the weapon's damage die as the superiority die.
You have uttered many words that I do not understand since my ooga booga brain only knows pen and paper and digital tablet 😃👍, but that is a cool workflow
btw checked your other art out, now I wish Lemmy had a follow feature, it's so cute!!!
Bristol Board is a super-smooth super-white kind of paper with a very high weight - it's cardstock weight. The main advantages of bristol board is that it's very smooth and very white. The reason I use this is so that my very hard pencil doesn't leave "dents" in the paper surface. If you try drawing a shape on regular paper with a hard pencil, then erase the pencil, and shade over with colour pencils, you'll see a white ghost of your pencilwork, because the paper has a dent that the colour pencil doesn't reach - it's like a rubbing of your pencil sketch. Bristol board is very hard-wearing, so I can erase my pencils and it stays smooth.
Pigment liners are a special kind of "drawing pen" - they're much cheaper then engineering pens (e.g. the Rotring rapidograph), they tend to cost somewhere between $1 and $2, depending on brand and quality. They feel like drawing with a felt-tip, but the tip of the pen is very precise and gives you an equal width line all the way along the stroke. The ink is permanent and very black, so you can wait a minute for it to dry, then erase the pencil sketch from underneath it. (The left image of the paladin above is pencil sketch work, the middle image is the ink pen after erasing the pencil.) - The most well known brand of Pigment liners is "Sakura Pigma Micron" (commonly called "Microns") - but I don't like that brand, so I use Mitsubishi Uni-Pins and Derwent Graphiks.
Coloursoft pencils are a fairly uncommon type of acrylic colouring pencil - they differ from regular colouring pencils because they have a higher wax content in the pencil lead. This makes them very soft to draw with, and they put down a large amount of very vibrant colour very quickly. (This is ideal for cartooning, but not great if you want to do watercolour style sketches.) - The other advantage that coloursofts have is that the formulation of the lead allows you to sharpen it to a very sharp point (see the green pencil in my image.) - This is great for detail work, or if you draw small. (I draw small.) Coloursofts also have quite a large range of colours and shades that you can get out of a single pencil - The metal on that paladin image is just two grey coloursoft pencils, one light, and one dark. The big disadvantage of coloursofts is that they don't blend well, and they don't erase at all - so you've got to know what you're aiming for before you start.
Gary didn't mess around. He loved putting the nastiest shit he could think of all over the damn place, seemingly to ensure players feared each and every die roll.
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