You can probably do a "paper clip" test to help you confirm its the PSU and nothing else. Basically removing the PSU and connecting a paperclip to specific pins on the PSU to act like an "ON" button.
But based on the symptoms you've indicated, it does sound like a PSU problem. Nollij's idea of buying another PSU that would allow you to return it sounds like another good solution/test.
Fire hazard being messing something up by tinkering with the PSU. It's not worth it over something that can be replaced for so little money. And I think it's just more about swap out the most likely failing component (the PSU) and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't then you know it wasn't the PSU.
Cutting the power for 30 seconds drains capacitors. The most likely culprit is in the PSU, but I've also seen it be the motherboard or GPU.
Desktop PSUs have been pretty standardized for 25 years. The odds are pretty good that you still have an old one, or know someone that you could borrow from long enough to test.
Failing that, just get one from a place with a decent return policy. I like Micro Center, if you're near one of those.
True, usually when you work with high voltage you make sure that everything is unplugged and safe. It's common sense and that's why even though you should call an electrician to change the light bulb nobody will tell you to not do it yourself. PSU is not that simple though. Capacitors can still hold a charge. Unless you got trained for working with high voltage you definitely shouldn't tinker with the PSU.
To add to what others have said. Since your computer runs fine when it's on I wonder if you'll see anything off but I suppose it's worth a shot as it's easy to test. Look up a 24pin diagram and use a multimeter to test if the pins are outputting the correct voltages.
I have some very old no name PSU but it's like 250W. Now GPU can draw this much power alone so my best bet would be buying new. With the option to return it might be worth a shot. Thanks!
So much terrible advice in this thread, including by AT&T. I'm a software developer, including web development, of 20+ years who is used to seeing these kinds of things. Hopefully I can help educate the folks on this thread.
TL;DR: There is nothing wrong with your equipment or its settings. Your internet connection is down and your modem is hijacking outgoing HTTPS connections. Once your internet connection comes back, the modem will no longer perform this behavior.
In-depth answer:
Various apps like browsers and Zoom use a protocol known as HTTPS. This protocol requires that your client device (PC, phone, etc.) and the remote server negotiate a secure, encrypted connection. Part of this negotiation is the server presenting the app with a certificate. The certificate will be issued for the domain name your computer is trying to access. For example, when your internet connection is working, connecting a browser to https://att.com will result in the server presenting a certificate for att.com, which is both trusted by a so-called "trusted certificate authority" and is also issued for att.com. Because the certificate is trusted and its domain name matches the domain name you are attempting to connect to, the browser allows the connection.
Your problem arose because the AT&T modem, often a brand like Arris, detects that there is no internet connection and intercepts these outgoing HTTPS connection attempts. Instead of not responding at all, which I argue is the more secure option, the Arris modem responds with a so-called "self-signed" certificate--named this way because the certificate was not issued by a trusted certificate authority like the real https://att.com certificate. Not only is the certificate not trusted, but it's also issued for the domain name dsldevice.domain_not_set.invalid, which, of course, doesn't match the domain name your client device is attempting to connect to. This results in scary warnings, popups, etc. These warnings differ from app to app, but they almost always prevent any further activity on the connection. This is for security reasons because sometimes malicious actors can man-in-the-middle a connection attempt between your client device and a server and attempt to provide a fake certificate. Most modern apps are programmed to handle these mismatches and prevent you from continuing to use the connection.
For example, here is Zoom's warning window that shows the self-signed certificate, its domain name (called a common name in certificate parlance), and who it was issued by. You can see the issuer is Arris, who is the manufacturer of my modem. Ignore the "The certificate is valid" with a green checkmark; the certificate is "valid" in the sense that it is well-formed, but it is invalid in the sense that it was not signed by a trusted certificate authority and is issued for a mismatched domain name (Zoom really should not report self-signed certificates as "valid.")
Insightful, kinda a dick about it tho. But yeah some message interception from your router or provider seems to be it.
I dont have this experience myself. I just saw your post and browsed some forums. So be cautious. But the issue isn't contained to any single device, platform, or provider it seems. So these explanations seem valid.
Jr Modem Engineer: Hey Steve, what should we do if their Internet is out and they want an https cert that we are unable to find?
Sr Modem Engineer: Well, Frank, glad you asked! We'll just quietly substitute it with this random janky self-signed certificate for the modem itself instead, I'm sure that'll solve everything!
Jr: But won't that just obscure the real problem and overwhelm the user with a bunch of unnecessary and incorrect error messages?
Literally my thought process. Though the alternative I guess is you just don't get a cert? Maybe the web page is automatically rejected? Both those suck too lol
Nah, this is not really a tech support community, but whatever. (Unless it is a tech support community? I always thought pcmasterrace was supposed to be a hair on the sarcastic side.)
It looks like a self-signed cert that is on your DSL modem (The subdomain was 'dsldevice'....) and I am guessing you are trying to use the web interface for your modem?
If you aren't making a connection to that device (which would have an IP address in 192.168.x.x, 10.x.x.x or 172.16.x.x) and you are trying to browse to an external site, then:
There is no internet connection and your device is injecting a local address for an external DNS query to give you a hint that you need to fix yo' shit or
Your device is super old and cannot handle HTTPS correctly. (Unlikely)
Your DSL device is hijacked and is doing an MTM attack on a HTTPS connection. (Highly unlikely, but you never know.)
Do regular web sites work correctly, or does this happen regardless of the site you are attempting to browse to?
Nah, this is not really a tech support community, but whatever. (Unless it is a tech support community? I always thought pcmasterrace was supposed to be a hair on the sarcastic side.)
I just came from the "Is my PSU broken?" thread here. This sub is supposed to be like the reddit sub, but honestly whatever gets posted here is fine with me. As long as it is PC related. I just like seeing something...anything...posted. I am not going back to the other place and want it to work here.
I am more than happy to help with tech support here as well as read snarky sarcastic PCMR material if it happens to show up. We just have a lack of it atm.
dsidevice.domain_not_set.invalid is the name on the certificate. That's not the name of a real website. This means that something else is making that certificate.
If you Google that name, you'll see that it's used when some Internet routers lose their connection and they hijack the https connection to give you an error page. Since it's an https connection, and it's not a valid certificate you get the error.
They also have a script patcher that makes it so you can use any font. A really useful feature if you replace fonts in programs or games, but the program doesn't fall back to a safe font if a character isn't supported.
I just upgraded my cpu in a long time too! Everything that could go wrong, did. I had to flash my bios a few times, straighten some pins, clean out some thermal paste from the socket, but after 3 days I figured it all out and got it working. Getting a build working after lots of problems is so fulfilling, it's almost worth the years of life I lost from stress.
I didn't have to do that. Bought my parts from Canada Computers and they open the Motherboard box in store before the sale, to inspect it, and I had to sign off on it.
That said I had some issues of my own design. My PC has a space for a 3 1/2" floppy and I wanted it internal so I got a USB adapter for it to run off of the internal header. The damn board locks up on boot if its in.
I feel your pain. 9 years ago I dropped my Intel CPU into the socket. One magnifying glass, a tweezer, some toothpick, and a week later it was up and running for 8 years, until I moved and leave it in a cardboard box for 6 months. Now it's just boot looping after the CPU fan spin for a few seconds.
I think the argument being made is that it doesn't mean more users are manually migrating to linux, because you don't buy a steamdeck because of its OS. You use steamOS because it comes with the steam deck.
However, users choosing linux over windows is only one aspect of the good news: Widespread linux use, intentional or not, makes it less likely that a developer will skip it as a platform "not worth the extra effort"
Being a Steam Deck owner myself, it also exposes more people to the underlying OS. I think there's a fundamental misunderstanding that people who use a Steam Deck only ever use it in Game Mode, and that's simply untrue.
I was convinced to buy one, because a user said they bought one for each of their kids as a stand-in for a laptop, and they would do their homework on it (in addition to playing games).
And now, because of my personal exposure, I have Bazzite running full time on a laptop, and I'm testing a few other Linux distros to eventually replace my Win 11 Pro install on my main desktop machine.
Those people should leave the purity tests and gatekeeping to the religious fundies.
I think I've seen that in the past (a long time ago) with some realtek setting where it plays your mic back to you (and since it's part of the sound card settings it happens everywhere regardless of what you have open).
I'd play around with in the realtek control panel.
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