Speaking as someone else who had a 7900XTX, this was sort of common. It’s just that a lot of game devs aren’t designing their games and apps with anything AMD (maybe Intel too) GPU related. The market is mostly Nvidia so that’s what their games are looking for when it tries to search up compatibility.
Most of the time, it’s just that they don’t officially support it but it still runs without any issue. Since their game is looking for “Nvidia” but sees “AMD”, it’s assuming you aren’t using a compatible GPU. Even more so because Alyx came out in 2020(?) and the 7900XTX came out in late 2022 so the game really doesn’t know that this GPU exists.
The game/app runs without any issue. The game just doesn’t have this specific card to check for a quick compatibility and throws this error as a “just in case”.
There were some rare times where the game/app legitimately did not run. The Oculus app was one of these. VR worked perfect fine through SteamVR but never with the Oculus app since that app was designed for Nvidia GPUs.
I've got it on ultra settings and have never noticed a frame rate drop. The game is around 4 years old and has a number of bugs, Valve kind of just abandoned it despite it being one of the flagship VR experiences. The software not recognizing a CPU that came out 2 years after launch and perhaps a good six months since it's been updated isn't a huge surprise.
Yes, please, because the rootkit implication that every single one of my fellow Helldivers is cheating wasn't enough for Sony (hell, that was only their foreplay)... Now, we get the next step in the data mining cash grab.
I don't, but I do at least expect that a massive corporation will at least try to make money by not doing something this fucking foolish, I swear they fucking hate money and reputation.
It's not just a data mining cash grab. It's a bigger cash grab than that. If they had required the account link from the beginning they would not have sold the game in countries where you can't get a PlayStation account.
They clearly waited until the hype from the game settled in before they made this requirement so that they could make all of the money from the countries they don't service.
That way they could squeeze a little extra out of the player base by mining their data long enough later that players can't get a refund. Doesn't matter to them that they're forcing players in half the geological world to quit.
Truly despicable. They should be forced to issue refunds to players they are effectively kicking from the game, but something tells me nothing is going to happen.
It's not an apology if you keep trucking right the fuck on along. You apologize, in part, by fixing the problem. Absent that, it's just empty words. Meaningless.
You can't fix a problem that you're being forced to create by your owners.
Sony owns¹ them. Sony says "force PSN log in" and Arrowhead either does what they're told or gets replaced.
it has been pointed out that Sony doesn't literally own them. They're the publisher and choose if the game ever sees the light of day but since that's legally distinct from ownership: Sony doesn't own Arrowhead, they just have their balls in a vice grip and a gun to the CEO's head. Totally different.
There are better "gaming" distros, but unless someone uses their PC exclusively for gaming, when it comes time to install other kinds of software for school or work or whatever, they're going to get thrown in the deep ends of Linux.
But guess what does have two decades of software and tutorials to set up just about everything in existence? Ubuntu, and by extension Mint.
Sure you can squeeze more out of your games with something like Bazzite, but the general platform that anything Linux-native targets is usually Ubuntu. Sure there's distrobox and stuff that's like telling the average gamer to go set up WSL. It's not hard per-se but the amount of things to learn increases very quickly.
Thus, even though Ubuntu is very average these days, it's still a safe bet for new users.
I just want to point out that even bazzite comes with the productivity basics: full libreoffice, Thunderbird, gimp and other graphics software available on installation. VSC has an official (and inofficial) app available as well.
Not saying you're wrong of course, but as someone who uses his computer to game, consume music and media, and dabble in coding and game modding I haven't missed anything so far (am very new to Linux myself). Though I'm sure that a more discerning user may find those essentials insufficient.
Probably not the best example in retrospect, since its only gotcha is that it's Fedora Atomic.
Mainly my point is if you Google "how do I install X" you'll get plenty of Ubuntu results out of the box, which when you're an overwhelmed newbie is very helpful. Like, if you start with nothing, you just kissed goodbye to your Windows 11 install, you dive head first into Bazzite and you've got Firefox, Discord and Steam going, everything feels good. Then you start looking up "how to install X on Linux", first you get a bunch of Ubuntu results, then you swap Linux for "bazzite", nothing because it's fairly new, but it's Fedora so you look into Fedora but you realize Bazzite is actually Fedora Atomic and it's a whole other way of installing things, maybe you just try running a .run or .sh file, or you give up and try to just make install from source but t̶h̴e̸ ̵f̸i̸l̸e̷s̸y̶s̷t̸e̶m̴ ̴i̶s̸ ̷r̷e̴a̴d̴o̷n̶l̷y̷ a̴n̵d̸w̷̪͊h̵̟̏y̴̻͛ ̸͉̒i̶͖͆s̸̪̎ ̸̗̏Ḷ̴͌i̶̞͑n̶̫͂u̵̯͋x̴͓͋ ̵͈̀ŝ̴̗o̴̱̒ ̴̭̎d̸̨͊a̷͙̽m̵̘̈ṇ̸̐ c̷͓͝ò̵̙m̵̲͛p̷̖̓ĺ̴̰ĭ̵̥c̵̰̽ă̸̩t̷͗ͅe̵͈̍d̵̻̃.
I would argue Ubuntu kinda sucks, but it sucks in a familiar windows-y kind of way where pretty much everyone knows how to fix it or make it work usually by blindly executing stuff. Not great, but it works, and it doesn't require much thinking. Ubuntu is pretty much the only distro you can find your way without caring what a distro is just by the pile of tutorials for Ubuntu or assuming Ubuntu. Case in point: Linus from LTT when he tried to apt install steam on Manjaro, after nuking his entire DE on Pop_OS using the same command. It's entirely his fault, but that's still a common and frustrating experience and they add up.
Same reason sometimes I just tell people honestly, just stick with Windows. Linux would be a good fit, it would be way better, but they're not willing or accepting of the learning curve. Sometimes you're just better sticking with what most people use, so everyone knows how to fix your problems.
I'm fairly tech-savvy and have double-booted Arch in the past, but I'm still having headaches trying to understand how my new Atomic Fedora (Aurora) install works. I love the idea but a little documentation wouldn't hurt.
I'm using a sandwich style case with the PCIE port at the top of the case and the 3 scews for the slots are at the bottom. It basically pushing the card up and backwards into the PCIE extension cable's slot. No ass sag, but I can tell there's a limit to how much it would be able to handle like that. I've got a 7900xt (not xtx) so it works for what I need right now.
I'll get it shared tomorrow. It's designed after a bottle jack but is completely threaded to allow for adjustment and doesn't have any of the handle components, obviously.
I may be misinterpreting what you're describing, but it kind of sounds like you've reinvented the machinist jack.
Not throwing shade, it makes sense and there's a reason that machinists the world over use them to tackle the same sort of problem of how to support sagging parts- it's simple and it works. And coming up with the same solution shows that you have a good understanding of the issue and how to tackle it.
Just pointing it out because I love the overlap between different fields and hobbies, and maybe if you didn't already know that machinist jacks were a thing you'll find inspiration for a version 2.0 if you ever feel the need to make one.
I'd also like to see your version when you get around to sharing it.
And yes, I designed this in a vacuum, but it is actually a common machinists jack, it seems. Minus a few neat features I saw around the web (like a lock screw component) it's a 1:1 match for functionality.
Like you, I have a love for projects and tools that are shared across different fields. Mostly due to my ADHD, I have a slew of hobbies that focus around mechanical engineering, chemistry and biology. It's extremely cost effective to commingle different hobbies, actually. My 3D printing and CAD work is universal, my collection of chemistry glass is used for rando chemistry things as well as mycology. All of my fittings, connectors and electronic components are also universal... etc. etc.
I feel like it's a pretty common experience for a lot of us maker types- we come up with a solution to a problem, maybe we tried searching for one and came up empty, or maybe we just thought it would be fun to make from the get-go, then sometime later we stumble upon someone selling pretty much the exact thing we made and think "huh, so thats what these things are called" maybe with a touch of disappointment that your idea wasn't as original as you thought, or maybe just intrigued because you just added another term to your vocabulary and you have a better idea what to search for next time.
Yours looks good though, It's probably unnecessary but I'd be tempted to add like a U-shaped cradle piece to the top to help keep it in place if your computer ever gets jostled for any reason, and maybe a jam nut at the bottom to make sure it stays where you set it. Again probably totally unnecessary, but I always figure that if it's worth doing it's worth overdoing.
What sort of printer and filament/resin are you using? I'd worry a bit about it warping or sagging over time from the heat inside a computer. I know some materials can handle the heat better or worse than others, but I haven't dipped my toes into 3d printing myself yet, so I may be overestimating how much of an issue it is.
And can your printer make decent screw threads, or do you have to clean them up afterwards with a tap and die or something? I'm not really up on the current state of 3d printers, but one of the first 3d printed objects I remember ever handling was back in high school 15 or so years ago. One of my teachers went to a conference where they were showing off new gadgets for computer and shop classes, and he brought back a couple 3d printed crescent wrenches for us to fondle. I remember the screws being really crunchy and they almost but didn't quite work, so in the back of my mind I've always thought of functional screw threads as something 3d printers can't quite do, so it's wild to me if we've gone from barely able to make even a coarse thread with huge tolerances work to being able to make pretty fine threads with pretty tight tolerances.
Of course back then, they hadn't even really settled on calling it "3d printing," I remember that teacher calling it a "rapid prototyping machine" when he was telling us about it, and described it as being "like a 3d printer"
In addition, I can't tell people enough that most "specialty' tools are most likely common tools from other fields, but maybe include a fancy adapter or something. And yes, I don't want to know how many times we have solved problems that were already solved. (A benefit is that we understand the true problem to its core and integrate those solutions much more efficiently into future projects.)
My "jack" is printed in PETG as it has a higher glass transition temperature (80°-85°C) than PLA. I have had PLA prints on my shelf start to sag due to age but most of that is likely negated by additives in new generations of PLA+. (or PLA Pro, or whatever buzzword is currently used.) PETG should be just fine for this. ABS would be another option, too.
I currently have a Prusa Mini that is my go to, but a large format Prusa XL with 5 separate hotends is squarely in my sights at the moment. (I have had several other printers that eventually got disassembled for parts.)
The threads on my print are super tight and no post processing was needed. It just screwed together after it was done. I did go to the trouble of designing a shoe looking adapter thing for more surface area against the card, but the weight of the card is enough to keep it from moving around. The thread angle is such that the downward pressure keeps enough friction on the threads so it's not going anywhere through any jostling. (Rough threads are a feature, in this case.)
But yeah, printers these days are much more accurate and less prone to errors. Just 10 years ago, every other print I did was a failure. Now? Failures are quite rare and that is mostly because of the tech. Now that layers are consistent enough these days, most threads I print are with 0.2mm layers which is good enough if I keep the tolerances wide enough in CAD. (My go-to is 0.25mm tolerance for fitted parts or less depending on the application.)
Yeah! I remember those wrenches quite well. Print-in-place models are somewhat mainstream now. I randomly put one on Printables and it is far more popular than I ever expected. The success rate seems quite high given the number of random printers that are out there: https://www.printables.com/model/489431-print-in-place-hinge . I only bring this up as it's a testament to how far the tech has come, and only recently.
I literally just got my first resin printer and have yet to have a failure. Getting consistent prints at 0.03mm has been a breeze and quality is limited by the model, not the printer. (Resin printer fanatics are likely to argue with me on that point.) Getting ABS plastic strength with hyper-detail is amazing! However, it's messy and smelly, so that sucks. (I am going to setup some real precision testing this evening as I have had some projects on hold for a couple of years due to FDM limitations.)
Not to compare, but I remember I had put a few olden (20 years old at least) lego bricks from my childhood together and made a support castle underneath an XFX brand 6700 XT with 3 fans.
Fuck that thing. THREE slots? I had to abandon one project and look for alternatives because my GFX card already block one slot from being used, but blocking two is crazy.
Reposting my answer from a similar thread. TLDR: I took the plunge on OLED TV in 2021 as a primary monitor and it's been incredible
I've been using an LG C1 48" OLED TV as my sole monitor for my full-time job, my photography, and gaming since the start of 2021. I think it's at around 3000 4500 hours of screen time. It averages over 10 hours of on time per weekday
It typically stays around 40 brightness because that's all I need, being fairly close to my face the size. All of the burn-in protection features are on (auto dimming , burn-in protection, pixel rotation) but I have Windows set to never sleep for work reasons.
Burn in has not been a thing. Sometimes, I leave it on with a spreadsheet open or a photo being edited overnight because I'm dumb. High brightness and high contrast areas might leave a spot visible in certain greys but by then, the TV will ask me to "refresh pixels" and it'll be gone when I next turn the TV on. The task bar has not burned in.
Experience for work, reading, dev: 8/10
Pros: screen real estate. One 48" monitor is roughly four 1080p 22" monitors tiled.The ergonomics are great. Text readability is very good especially in dark mode.
cons: sharing my full screen is annoying to others because it's so big. Video camera has to be placed a bit higher than ideal so I'm at a slightly too high angle for video conferences.
This is categorically a better working monitor than my previous cheap dual 4k setup but text sharpness is not as good as a high end LCD with retina-like density because 1) the density and 2) the subpixel configuration on OLED is not as good for text rendering. This has never been an issue for my working life.
Experience with photo and video editing: 10/10
Outside of dedicated professional monitors which are extremely expensive, there is no better option for color reproduction and contrast. From what I've seen in the consumer sector, maybe Apple monitors are at this level but the price is 4 or 5x.
Gaming: 10/10
2160p120hz HDR with 3ms lag, perfect contrast and extremely good color reproduction.
FPSs feel really good.
Anything dark/horror pops
A lot of real estate for RTSs
Maybe flight sim would have benefited from dusk monitor setup?
I've never had anything but a good gaming experience. I did have a 144hz monitor before and going to 120 IS marginally noticable for me but I don't think it's detrimental at the level I play (suck)
Reviewers had mentioned that it's good for consoles too though I never bothered
Movies and TV: 10/10
4K HDR is better than theaters' picture quality in a dark room. Everything I've thrown on it has been great.
Final notes/recommendations
This is my third LG OLED and I've seen the picture quality dramatically increase over the years. Burn-in used to be a real issue and grays were trashed on my first OLED after about 1000 hours.
Unfortunately, I have to turn the TV on from the remote every time. It does automatically turn off from no signal after the computers screen sleep timer, which is a good feature.
There are open source programs which get around this.
This TV has never been connected to the Internet... I've learned my lesson with previous LG TVs. They spy, they get ads, they have horrendous privacy policies, and they have updates which kill performance or features... Just don't. Get a streaming box.
You need space for it, width and depth wise.
The price is high (around 1k USD on sale) but not compared with gaming monitors and especially compared with 2 gaming monitors.
Pixel rotation is noticeable when the entire screen shifts over a pixel two. It also will mess with you if you have reference pixels at the edge of the screen. This can be turned off.
Burn in protection is also noticable on mostly static images. I wiggle my window if it gets in my way. This can also be turned off.
When it comes to gaming I've found them to be mid at best, but I think that's exactly why they get recommended a lot. Stability (as in using old but not too old drivers) and a broad and easily accessible knowledge base in term of tutorials and answered newbie questions.
So much terrible advice in this thread, including by AT&T. I'm a software developer, including web development, of 20+ years who is used to seeing these kinds of things. Hopefully I can help educate the folks on this thread.
TL;DR: There is nothing wrong with your equipment or its settings. Your internet connection is down and your modem is hijacking outgoing HTTPS connections. Once your internet connection comes back, the modem will no longer perform this behavior.
In-depth answer:
Various apps like browsers and Zoom use a protocol known as HTTPS. This protocol requires that your client device (PC, phone, etc.) and the remote server negotiate a secure, encrypted connection. Part of this negotiation is the server presenting the app with a certificate. The certificate will be issued for the domain name your computer is trying to access. For example, when your internet connection is working, connecting a browser to https://att.com will result in the server presenting a certificate for att.com, which is both trusted by a so-called "trusted certificate authority" and is also issued for att.com. Because the certificate is trusted and its domain name matches the domain name you are attempting to connect to, the browser allows the connection.
Your problem arose because the AT&T modem, often a brand like Arris, detects that there is no internet connection and intercepts these outgoing HTTPS connection attempts. Instead of not responding at all, which I argue is the more secure option, the Arris modem responds with a so-called "self-signed" certificate--named this way because the certificate was not issued by a trusted certificate authority like the real https://att.com certificate. Not only is the certificate not trusted, but it's also issued for the domain name dsldevice.domain_not_set.invalid, which, of course, doesn't match the domain name your client device is attempting to connect to. This results in scary warnings, popups, etc. These warnings differ from app to app, but they almost always prevent any further activity on the connection. This is for security reasons because sometimes malicious actors can man-in-the-middle a connection attempt between your client device and a server and attempt to provide a fake certificate. Most modern apps are programmed to handle these mismatches and prevent you from continuing to use the connection.
For example, here is Zoom's warning window that shows the self-signed certificate, its domain name (called a common name in certificate parlance), and who it was issued by. You can see the issuer is Arris, who is the manufacturer of my modem. Ignore the "The certificate is valid" with a green checkmark; the certificate is "valid" in the sense that it is well-formed, but it is invalid in the sense that it was not signed by a trusted certificate authority and is issued for a mismatched domain name (Zoom really should not report self-signed certificates as "valid.")
Insightful, kinda a dick about it tho. But yeah some message interception from your router or provider seems to be it.
I dont have this experience myself. I just saw your post and browsed some forums. So be cautious. But the issue isn't contained to any single device, platform, or provider it seems. So these explanations seem valid.
Jr Modem Engineer: Hey Steve, what should we do if their Internet is out and they want an https cert that we are unable to find?
Sr Modem Engineer: Well, Frank, glad you asked! We'll just quietly substitute it with this random janky self-signed certificate for the modem itself instead, I'm sure that'll solve everything!
Jr: But won't that just obscure the real problem and overwhelm the user with a bunch of unnecessary and incorrect error messages?
Literally my thought process. Though the alternative I guess is you just don't get a cert? Maybe the web page is automatically rejected? Both those suck too lol
As others say…. Multiple monitors for work. One big ultra wide for gaming.
My only “complaint” about ultra wide is that most gaming ui’s aren’t configured for them. Meaning that to look at the mini map in a game like Cyberpunk, you have to take your eyes off the centre of the screen. Then you will crash your car.
As someone who dabbled in gamedev (no expert though), I would find it hard to find a solution for the UI problem. The base of many UI implementation is always a reference screen resolution where stuff gets resized and/or stretched according to the width of the monitor. So if a minimap is, let's say, placed 40 pixels from the edge of the screen, it will always be 40 pixels from the edge of the screen. Creating custom UI's for every resolution would be really timeconsuming.
Maybe some day it will be the standard that you allow people to customize the UI and drag things around themselves. But for now, such systems are not readily available in game engines and would have to be custom built.
Most games are apparently built like this. But there are two solutions: as you've said, making the UI configurable is one of them. (In KSP you can move the navball left and right on the bottom edge of the screen) Or the UI placement can be made with modern ultra wide screens in mind. W.g. the minimap is placed 40px from the right edge, unless the screen is an ultrawide one, then the UI is restructed to a box that is equivalent to a 21:9 (or 16:9) screen.
Cutting the power for 30 seconds drains capacitors. The most likely culprit is in the PSU, but I've also seen it be the motherboard or GPU.
Desktop PSUs have been pretty standardized for 25 years. The odds are pretty good that you still have an old one, or know someone that you could borrow from long enough to test.
Failing that, just get one from a place with a decent return policy. I like Micro Center, if you're near one of those.
True, usually when you work with high voltage you make sure that everything is unplugged and safe. It's common sense and that's why even though you should call an electrician to change the light bulb nobody will tell you to not do it yourself. PSU is not that simple though. Capacitors can still hold a charge. Unless you got trained for working with high voltage you definitely shouldn't tinker with the PSU.
To add to what others have said. Since your computer runs fine when it's on I wonder if you'll see anything off but I suppose it's worth a shot as it's easy to test. Look up a 24pin diagram and use a multimeter to test if the pins are outputting the correct voltages.
I have some very old no name PSU but it's like 250W. Now GPU can draw this much power alone so my best bet would be buying new. With the option to return it might be worth a shot. Thanks!
Mint is a straight swap. Knowing everything about your PC is so much work. I would rather just game and not have to be a programmer to not see ads every 5 seconds.
Had a similar issue once and it turned out to be a powered USB hub backfeeding and putting the motherboard into an odd power state, only figured it out when I noticed a status LED remaining on after I physically unplugged the main power for the computer. May be worth unplugging any hubs you may have to rule that out
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