I have a 50 or 52 on the back of my bike and its a decent amount bigger than any dork disc I've ever seen. They seem to only go up to 34 and I have been thinking of 3d printing one that matches my colour scheme.
I love the satisfaction when something goes wrong on a ride and you're prepared for it. I came off my bike a few months ago and scraped up my elbow pretty bad. Despite the mild concussion I remember being quite excited to be able to patch myself up in the field, hahaha.
I had one broken spoke in around 40 years of cycling. I always thought it was basically impossible to break them, even if the bike is 20+ years old. I guess you just need the right (wrong?) circumstances...
Oof. You definitely were taking a risk with that drive train. I'm glad the worst of it is a few broken spokes.
That's clearly have a working bike, not some sort of weekend roadie show piece. Put a dork disk on there! There isn't any shame in favoring function over form.
Awesome call-out on zip ties. They're the duct tape of the bike world.
One small thing I noticed is how your fender and rack are mounted. It's fine to share a single eyelet to mount both, but it's best to mount in the order of frame, rack, fender, washer, and bolt. That ordering shortens the cantilever of the rack load, a much higher load than a fender, on the bolt.
I'm sure it's been years. I tell myself I maintain my bikes well, but I'll be honest: I usually ride it 'till something breaks. I was asking for this one.
Yeah. I wasn't sure whether you're mocking people maintaining their bikes or yourself there. I think doing a quick tightening of your screws, oiling / waxing your chain and adjusting your derailleur are kinda the main things you want to do, especially if the bike was standing around for a while (even more so if stored outside where the temps fluctuate even more).
I've seen what a splintered carbon arrow can do, and for a very short moment I thought the image was actually showing something like that. Still sucks, though.
If that freehub is constructed like the ones I've taken apart before, you're out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.
You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won't work if it's very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don't want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.
Yeah I think I'm just going to disassemble the new one and move all the parts onto the old freehub body. There's no way I'm getting this one off without messing up the wheel hub. If correct size allen key and a 2 meter long cheater bar didn't get it to budge I don't think the torx method or a screw extractor is going to work either.
There's no more bearings, everything has already been disassembled. This has loose cup and cone bearings. It's only half of the freehub that's left stuck to the wheel hub. You're supposed to remove it by unscrewing a bolt that's holding it thru the wheel hub from the brake disc side with a long hex key but I stripped the hex slot in it.
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