I have my doubts about how accurate all these claims are, and whether other causes are being attributed to friendly fire, but there's an astonishing number of cases like this.
I guess largely because both sides have very similar equipment.
I'm the exact opposite: when I was still coding for work, that was when the curses flowed forth like a majestic waterfall, but I've always loved working on my own projects and don't mind adversity and mistakes at all
Varför ska ministerrådet, polisen, militären och underrättelsetjänsten få dela barnporr? Varföt försöker Ylva Johansson skydda pedofilerna i just de kretsarna?
If your tent truly is that hot I'm impressed. On my 2.4 with just 2x bedfans, the chamber doesn't crack 40 degrees C after 45 minutes.
The reason why most recommend low/no cooling for ASA/ABS is due to low chamber temps.
If your chamber is that hot you should be able to crank the cooling without much concern. Print a temp tower to prove it out, and to feel out of this is a filament temp issue.
One other piece of advice for ASA: I've found that it likes consistency. I print basically all features at the same speed, other than the first layer. I suspect cooling would fall into this category too.
The solution was more cooling. It was warping due to too much heat, I increased cooling to 100% and reduced overhang speed slightly and it now prints well.
Printing fast/without cooling can also go the other way:
By printing very fast the last layer may still be "hot" when the new layer is added. As the temperature differential is smaller there is less stress within the part once it is cooled down.
If you don't understand much about AI models, how they work, how to install/use them and unable to recover all of the specific jargon that comes with the field...
That site is very useful but it's not a great starting point, it is not useful in the terms of understanding everything beyond just diving in the deep end and troubleshooting via external help forums like stack overflow regularly to figure it out.
The Lodge griddle I have really isn't usable for pizza... But for setting atop my induction stove to turn into a big hot metal surface for bacon, burger patties, and toasting the buns, all at the same time? Perfect.
I mean... I've been scouring cast iron at thrift shops for ages.
I'll probably catch flack for it, but I polished off the bottom so as to be better for my induction cook top. I feel like cast iron+induction was a match made in heaven (though I did have to relearn some old habits, like most people I used the flame height to estimate heat into the pan. Now, it's quite a bit more consistent, but also a bit more... technical.)
polishing the bottom isn't hard. an orbital sander, a particulate mask (yes. you need it.). work through the grits. You can do it by hand if you really want to, and you probably don't need to go beyond "fine" grits. (though I took it to extra fine and then hit it up with green buffing compound because... "oooo shiny."...)
Why would removing the seasoning improve the performance of cast iron on an induction stove?
Polymerised oil in no way interferes with a magnetic field. The cast iron heats up from the inside out, just the same.
Or did you just do it to keep your stovetop clean?
My griddle, due to the edge on it, doesn't sit flush on my stove, there's about half a centimeter air gap. Yet, because induction is just a powerful switching magnetic field, it heats up just the same. It just needs to be close enough to the electromagnet below the stove surface.
No it won't. Induction stove tops are ceramic. Ceramic on mohs scale is "hard as fuck".
Unless you have rocks (or salt crystals) stuck in the seasoning, neither polymerized oil nor any metal is hard enough to scratch it. They literally can't.
That would be like a metal knife scratching a glass cutting board, which famously can't happen, and is the reason why glass cutting boards are a terrible, knife destroying, idea.
Unless you have rocks stuck in the seasoning, neither polymerized oil nor steel is hard enough to scratch it. They literally can’t.
this is not actually true. There's still wear to the harder material. The harder material still wears over time, though less so. also: from proline:
One of the most common causes of scratches on induction cooktops is rough-bottomed saucepans and skillets. If you are using a pot or pan that has a rough surface on its base, it may cause scratches on the cooktop.
Most manufactures will also recommend not using rough bottomed pans. (or placing something under it like a cotton pad/cloth), it's literally one of two warnings against cast iron (that, and weight.)
Also, part of why that is, is that the rough surface does trap things (like carbonized foodstuffs.) which act like grit. a polished surface is much less likely to trap such things.
and again, it makes the shake-pan-to-stir thing (like you see for stir fries or flipping omlettes and pancakes) easier with cast iron.
It's a POS ikea convection/microwave combo thing. The convection mode maxes out at 250 °C, which is pathetic, but for pizza I put a sheet pan in the middle and blast the grill mode which uses a heating element in the top of the oven.
This halves the volume of the oven, and the grill mode doesn't take a temperature, just one of three heat settings.
So I set it to MAX and let it preheat for a bit, and the result is pretty good.
Bringing back strong 1990s Pizza Hut memories. Sure they are the same still today, but I have not stepped into one since the 1990s as I value my health. Ahahahaha
Pizza hut pan is my favorite fast food pizza and I don't understand how anyone could feel otherwise, unless you have something against crispy buttery overindulgence in which case... fair. But nothing I've seen has come close to that perfec " box kraft Mac n cheese " level of junk food perfection
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